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View Full Version : Here's MY New TOY



J.J.
January 21st, 2006, 04:19 PM
Here's my new TOY. It's a 74 FJ40 Land Cruiser. Everything on it is original. There is only rust on the rear under the tailgate, some dime-sized surface rust spots here and there, but all in all, this thing is CLEAN. I just need to find some time this week to haul it home:D

Here are some of my plans. (some of these will be changed during the build)

frame-up resto.
SOA conversion and shckle reversal
4" lift springs
detroits front and rear
front and rear disk brake conversions
TBI 350
Tranny????
T-Case????
38" Iroks
4 PLUS cage, front bumper, and rear bumper/tire carrier
And alot other things I can't think of right now

4X4BABE
January 21st, 2006, 04:25 PM
ARE U KEEPIN THE CURTAINS IN THE WINDOWS??I MIGHT WANT THOSE.LOL:no:

BigNorm
January 21st, 2006, 04:31 PM
I think shackle reversals are over rated. Keep them toward the front and keep the drivelines alive longer. That and you don't have to spend the big bux on a long travel driveline. Just my .02

J.J.
January 21st, 2006, 04:35 PM
ARE U KEEPIN THE CURTAINS IN THE WINDOWS??I MIGHT WANT THOSE.LOL:no:

do you really want them? they've been sitting there for 18 years and stink like shit. they'll keep your jeep's interior safe from sun damage. :D :thefinger :D

Baja or Bust
January 21st, 2006, 04:48 PM
Sweet rig jj,:rock: you should come by SAMCO and check out the fj were building its linked in the rear and were going to link the front too. Its getting a 383 stroker in it with a turbo 400 trans and a altas 2 t-case. Its pretty sweet u should come check it out sometime

J.J.
January 21st, 2006, 04:52 PM
Sweet rig jj,:rock: you should come by SAMCO and check out the fj were building its linked in the rear and were going to link the front too. Its getting a 383 stroker in it with a turbo 400 trans and a altas 2 t-case. Its pretty sweet u should come check it out sometime


you workin' at SAMCO now?

i'll stop by, maybe sometime this week. i'd really like to see it, and get some ideas :yes:

rusty_tlc
January 21st, 2006, 05:31 PM
Do the shackle reversal.
You might want to consider the Metal Tech full family cage.


Did you get my PM?

J.J.
January 21st, 2006, 05:40 PM
Do the shackle reversal.
You might want to consider the Metal Tech full family cage.

Did you get my PM?

that's a negative on the PM

i've heard of metal tech, but i couldn't find any pics or websites? :dunno:

Lumpy
January 21st, 2006, 07:46 PM
NICE RIG IM SURE IT WILL TURN OUT GOOD :yes: :yes:

Connect
January 22nd, 2006, 01:15 AM
Yea seems like we are all going TOY :) Hopefully they will turn out equally as bad ass :roll:

You need to chop the top and extend the WB a little bit with some wider axles ;)

rusty_tlc
January 22nd, 2006, 06:33 PM
Metal Tech Cage (http://metaltech4x4.com/homesframeset.htm)
http://metaltech4x4.com/Images/Product/cage%20kits/full/cage_1.JPG

J.J.
January 22nd, 2006, 06:36 PM
Yea seems like we are all going TOY :) Hopefully they will turn out equally as bad ass :roll:

You need to chop the top and extend the WB a little bit with some wider axles ;)




i'm not going to CHOP anything. it's still gotta look good ;) no wide axles :no: at least not yet.

J.J.
January 22nd, 2006, 06:45 PM
Metal Tech Cage (http://metaltech4x4.com/homesframeset.htm)
http://metaltech4x4.com/Images/Product/cage%20kits/full/cage_1.JPG


yeah, i finally found the site today :hammerhea :hammerhea

i really like the stuff they have. i also like the fact that they are in KIT form. this will save a bunch of $$$$.

MR.ROCKAPE
January 22nd, 2006, 08:36 PM
yeah, i finally found the site today :hammerhea :hammerhea

i really like the stuff they have. i also like the fact that they are in KIT form. this will save a bunch of $$$$.
HOW MUCH $$$ FOR THAT NO STYLE HAVIN CAGE???DOM?? HREW??POOP PIPE??DOES IT TIE INTO THE FRAME??JUST CURIOUS??

MR.ROCKAPE
January 22nd, 2006, 08:40 PM
i'm not going to CHOP anything. it's still gotta look good ;) no wide axles :no: at least not yet.
WHAT??IF YOU WANT TO DO THIS!!!
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f271/missjenny4x4/MYJEEP.jpg
INSTEAD OF THIS!!!
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c233/rockape81/Picture118.jpg
THEN STAY WITH THOSE STOCK AXLES!!WERENT YOU GOING TO BUILD A BUGGY LAST WEEK:blahblah: :blahblah: ??:listen: DID THE XJ GUYS CUT YOUR NUTS OFF??

Dirty Harry
January 23rd, 2006, 08:14 AM
SOA conversion and shckle reversal
4" lift springs
Tranny????
T-Case????
38" Iroks


To fit 38" tires (BTW they don't make 38" Iroks) you don't need a springover and 4" lift springs. That would be way too tall in my opinion. Do the springover and run Metal Tech front fenders with trimmed skirts and TJ rear flares. That should give you plenty of clearance and keep the rig relatively low.

I'd run an automatic behind a SBC myself, either a TH350 or a 700R4 if you want overdrive. For the t-case, as Rusty_TLC mentioned before you need to keep the stock transfer case if you are running the stock axles, since the t-case is offset.

Sounds like you have a good plan and a clean rig to start with. :thumbsup:

rusty_tlc
January 23rd, 2006, 09:17 AM
HOW MUCH $$$ FOR THAT NO STYLE HAVIN CAGE???DOM?? HREW??POOP PIPE??DOES IT TIE INTO THE FRAME??JUST CURIOUS??
$550 +shipping, $45 for the frame tie in kit. 2" .0120 HREW and 2" .125 DOM

rusty_tlc
January 23rd, 2006, 09:20 AM
To fit 38" tires (BTW they don't make 38" Iroks) you don't need a springover and 4" lift springs. That would be way too tall in my opinion. Do the springover and run Metal Tech front fenders with trimmed skirts and TJ rear flares. That should give you plenty of clearance and keep the rig relatively low.

I'd run an automatic behind a SBC myself, either a TH350 or a 700R4 if you want overdrive. For the t-case, as Rusty_TLC mentioned before you need to keep the stock transfer case if you are running the stock axles, since the t-case is offset.

Sounds like you have a good plan and a clean rig to start with. :thumbsup:

He could get an Orion box. ;) That would be a sweet set-up with a SBC and the 700R4.

Sierra Valley
January 23rd, 2006, 10:22 AM
Nice JJ,

Its stock so thats good, dont have to deal w/ anybody else's jimmy riggen. Get some junk yard 44s, run 37s, then you can have a lot more choices w/ drivetrain options. Thats my .02$:D

Sierra Valley
January 23rd, 2006, 10:23 AM
Metal Tech Cage (http://metaltech4x4.com/homesframeset.htm)
http://metaltech4x4.com/Images/Product/cage%20kits/full/cage_1.JPG


Looks like a jeep

rusty_tlc
January 23rd, 2006, 10:29 AM
Looks like a jeep
:thefinger
You really should get out in the civilized world more often. :D

Sierra Valley
January 23rd, 2006, 10:34 AM
:thefinger
You really should get out in the civilized world more often. :D

:smokin:
Im in Reno right now, was in truckee skiing back country all weekend so whats your point? You should buy a CD player, get rid of the 8 track in that rusted old jeep i mean yota:nervous: :D

rusty_tlc
January 23rd, 2006, 10:48 AM
:smokin:
Im in Reno right now, was in truckee skiing back country all weekend so whats your point? You should buy a CD player, get rid of the 8 track in that rusted old jeep i mean yota:nervous: :D
I thought your spent all your time in the mountains practicing your Banjo?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a171/Rusty_clt/Stuff/deliverance_guitar.jpg

No 8 Track in 'Ol Rusty, not even an AM radio. Not much point, all you can hear is body parts falling off and tire hum.

Dirty Harry
January 23rd, 2006, 10:51 AM
Looks like a jeep

Fortunately it doesn't break like one. If you are suggesting he get rid of the stock Land Cruiser axles to run Dana 44s you obviously don't know much about Toyotas. You would be much better off getting rid of your Dana 30 and Model 20 for some Dana 44s. :rolling:

Sierra Valley
January 23rd, 2006, 11:38 AM
Fortunately it doesn't break like one. If you are suggesting he get rid of the stock Land Cruiser axles to run Dana 44s you obviously don't know much about Toyotas. You would be much better off getting rid of your Dana 30 and Model 20 for some Dana 44s. :rolling:


Well Mr. Toyota, thanks for your input:fight: My axles are just as strong as dana 44s, that is if I truss them. Anymore bright ideas durrdy hairy, just go ahead and let me know.

And if you read my post, I was stating that he would simply have more drive train options. They might have some remedial grammer classes out at TMCC, Id suggest taking them.:D

Sierra Valley
January 23rd, 2006, 11:41 AM
I thought your spent all your time in the mountains practicing your Banjo?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a171/Rusty_clt/Stuff/deliverance_guitar.jpg

No 8 Track in 'Ol Rusty, not even an AM radio. Not much point, all you can hear is body parts falling off and tire hum.


Why dont you come out into the mts and come play, all I see of you is :lamer: :thefinger

I wheel 5 times as much as you do:icon312: so come on out and bring it, shit I'll even buy ya 12 pack of PBR for ya. Went out twice this weekend. Put your rust pile where your mouth is old man:D

Dirty Harry
January 23rd, 2006, 11:54 AM
And if you read my post, I was stating that he would simply have more drive train options. They might have some remedial grammer classes out at TMCC, Id suggest taking them.:D

Thanks for the advice, but considering that you misspelled "grammar" but you are about the last person I'm going to take education advice from. He'd have more drivetrain options if he swapped in a Dana 35 in the back too, but that wouldn't be a very smart option either. See Keith, that is what I call "deduction". We were talking about tech here, weren't we?

You'll need to add power steering to that Land Cruiser in order to turn the big tires. Advance Adapters makes a nice kit using a Saginaw box.

Sierra Valley
January 23rd, 2006, 11:59 AM
Well got me w/ the grammar:hammerhea

BTW, Id get a can of spray paint and paint over that shit stained pin stripe down the middle of the body.:D

Dirty Harry
January 23rd, 2006, 12:02 PM
BTW, Id get a can of spray paint and paint over that shit stained pin stripe down the middle of the body.:D

Agreed. Looks a like TOO much like Uncle Rico's van for me...

rusty_tlc
January 23rd, 2006, 12:11 PM
Why dont you come out into the mts and come play, all I see of you is :lamer: :thefinger

I wheel 5 times as much as you do:icon312: so come on out and bring it, shit I'll even buy ya 12 pack of PBR for ya. Went out twice this weekend. Put your rust pile where your mouth is old man:D
I never claim to be much of a wheeler, tough to do much driving when you junk is on blocks.:hammerhea Also not much in the way of "Mad Fab Skilz" which it is taking so long to finish my rig.
Trust me I would love to get out and get my butt schooled on the finer points. :(

Until then I'll just keep plunking away.

Sierra Valley
January 23rd, 2006, 12:11 PM
Agreed. Looks a like TOO much like Uncle Rico's van for me...


:D :yes:

rusty_tlc
January 23rd, 2006, 12:12 PM
Agreed. Looks a like TOO much like Uncle Rico's van for me...
I think thats something we could all agree on. :rolling:

Sierra Valley
January 23rd, 2006, 12:20 PM
I never claim to be much of a wheeler, tough to do much driving when you junk is on blocks.:hammerhea Also not much in the way of "Mad Fab Skilz" which it is taking so long to finish my rig.
Trust me I would love to get out and get my butt schooled on the finer points. :(

Until then I'll just keep plunking away.


Thats cool, keep working on it and it will be done one of these days. About every 3 months I break something and it sits on blocks for another two months. If you ever need a hand, hit me up:D

scottb
January 23rd, 2006, 12:35 PM
sweet rig dude! when we gonna abuse it?

scottb
January 23rd, 2006, 12:38 PM
anyone notice the red FJ's spare is bigger than the other tires?

JOE THE TOE
January 23rd, 2006, 12:53 PM
anyone notice the red FJ's spare is bigger than the other tires?
I THINK THATS JUST THE PICTURE.:maggie: ;) :D

J.J.
January 23rd, 2006, 04:06 PM
HOLY SHIT YOU FUKKERS WERE BUSY WHILE I WAS AT WORK TODAY!!!! :thefinger:

where do i start? hmmmm..................

i am keeping the stock axles and put some newfields in the front (birfs and shafts), and poly performance shafts in the rear. both will have 4.56 gears? 4.10s? and maybe even aussies?

since i am keeping the axles an Orion will go in. an automatic would be great :yes:

i was thinking about the SOA AND 4" springs, but i agree, just a tad too tall. i didn't realize how much lift comes with the SOA. may be 2" springs will do the job and some fender trimming, kinda like what Denis Da Menace did to his jeep? maybe even stretch the wheelbase a little in the back? who knows :dunno:, i still haven't gone and picked the cruiser up yet.

damn, no 38" iroks? i ASSUMED there were 38s available, but assuming only makes you look like an ass, right? :D how 'bout 37s? maybe a bit more reasonable? anyone come across maxxis tires? just wondering if they're any good.


about, the pinstripe. that shit's forkin' ugly. i've never seen a cruiser with a stripe :scratch: i WILL repaint everything. don't know which color yet though. i don't really care about keeping the original color since, after i'm done, this b!tch aint gonna be anywhrere close to original.

whew, i'm tired. :thefinger:

Dirty Harry
January 23rd, 2006, 04:54 PM
i was thinking about the SOA AND 4" springs, but i agree, just a tad too tall. i didn't realize how much lift comes with the SOA. may be 2" springs will do the job and some fender trimming, kinda like what Denis Da Menace did to his jeep? maybe even stretch the wheelbase a little in the back? who knows :dunno:, i still haven't gone and picked the cruiser up yet.

I'd stick with stock springs if it was me. You can run front springs in the back and turn around the front springs since they have offset center pins. That will lengthen your wheelbase. Check out Off-Road.com's Land Cruiser section (http://www.off-road.com/tlc/) . The FAQ in particular in very good.



damn, no 38" iroks? i ASSUMED there were 38s available, but assuming only makes you look like an ass, right? :D how 'bout 37s? maybe a bit more reasonable? anyone come across maxxis tires? just wondering if they're any good.


The Creepy Crawlers look nice but they are considerably more expensive than the Iroks.

Check out Proffit's Cruisers (http://www.proffittscruisers.com/) . That should give you some ideas. :D Those guys are super cool and build really clean rigs that work. BTB (http://www.btbprod.com/) are expensive but they make some cool stuff too.

J.J.
January 23rd, 2006, 05:08 PM
I'd stick with stock springs if it was me. You can run front springs in the back and turn around the front springs since they have offset center pins. That will lengthen your wheelbase. Check out Off-Road.com's Land Cruiser section (http://www.off-road.com/tlc/) . The FAQ in particular in very good.

Check out Proffit's Cruisers (http://www.proffittscruisers.com/) . That should give you some ideas. :D Those guys are super cool and build really clean rigs that work. BTB (http://www.btbprod.com/) are expensive but they make some cool stuff too.

proffitt's was the first place i looked at for land cruiser stuff (after MAF and SOR of course) i am thinking of going with their SOA kit. i am also looking at Metal Tech's tube fender kit. :yes:

now about steering. saginaw PS kit? hydro assist? they cost about the same, but which will work better? i've seen some cruisers with BOTH, and only 35" tires :eek: is this overkill? :dunno:

Dirty Harry
January 23rd, 2006, 05:15 PM
now about steering. saginaw PS kit? hydro assist? they cost about the same, but which will work better? i've seen some cruisers with BOTH, and only 35" tires :eek: is this overkill? :dunno:

You cannot add the hydro assist without first adding power steering. You can get power steering and then add the hydro assist later if you want. Hydro assist is nice on the trail but it can slow down the steering on the road if the pump cannot keep up. You should be fine with a Saginaw pump though. Worn/leaking seals on the ram are also a problem. Rock Logic rams have a better reputation than West Texas Off Road.

Connect
January 23rd, 2006, 05:19 PM
I like their 4 link kits :)

J.J.
January 23rd, 2006, 05:22 PM
You cannot add the hydro assist without first adding power steering. You can get power steering and then add the hydro assist later if you want. Hydro assist is nice on the trail but it can slow down the steering on the road if the pump cannot keep up. You should be fine with a Saginaw pump though. Worn/leaking seals on the ram are also a problem. Rock Logic rams have a better reputation than West Texas Off Road.

the kit is pretty pricey,so where can i find a "saginaw"? which vehicles came with them? i have seen rebuilt ones at places like MAF, but $400 :eek: maybe i can find one at PnP?

Dirty Harry
January 23rd, 2006, 05:27 PM
the kit is pretty pricey,so where can i find a "saginaw"? which vehicles came with them? i have seen rebuilt ones at places like MAF, but $400 :eek: maybe i can find one at PnP?

You didn't click on the link I posted, did you? :dunno:

http://www.off-road.com/tlc/tech/saginaw/

J.J.
January 23rd, 2006, 05:32 PM
You didn't click on the link I posted, did you? :dunno:

http://www.off-road.com/tlc/tech/saginaw/

:no: :no: :no: :no: :no:

oops missed it. now i did :D

Samco Fab
January 23rd, 2006, 07:23 PM
Agreed. Looks a like TOO much like Uncle Rico's van for me...

:rolling: I say keep the stripe and the 8 track! Dont cut and smash that thing up too much, those things are getting too rare.

J.J.
January 23rd, 2006, 07:41 PM
:rolling: I say keep the stripe and the 8 track! Dont cut and smash that thing up too much, those things are getting too rare.

hey SAMCO. i heard you're building an FJ. have any pics? specs? i need some ideas.

rusty_tlc
January 24th, 2006, 07:43 AM
If you are doing a PS conversion and hydro assiste it is cheaper to go with PSC Motorsports kit. You get a modified PS pump, Resivior, Ram w/ hiems & mounting tabs, all the hoses and fittings. You can buy a mounting plate from BTB products, but they are pretty easy to fab. Be sure you box the other side of the frame to stiffen it up. You will also want to fab some tubes to sleeve the bolts between the mounting plate and the frame. If you are using the Proffittts SOA kit set the spring hangers before you mount the PS pump. I can get you the Flaming river P/N's for the linkage you will need to hook the steering column to the PS gear box.
The Proffitts SOA kit should work since your rig has stock suspension. IIRC they include a front axle housing already cut and turned, with a stock suspension thats okay.

Id stick with the stock springs, you will be plenty tall enough for 36+ tires.

rusty_tlc
January 24th, 2006, 07:52 AM
hey SAMCO. i heard you're building an FJ. have any pics? specs? i need some ideas.
I've seen it. Very nice project.

Dennis
January 24th, 2006, 08:01 AM
hey SAMCO. i heard you're building an FJ. have any pics? specs? i need some ideas.

http://www.samcofabrication.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=153

Dirty Harry
January 24th, 2006, 08:14 AM
If you are doing a PS conversion and hydro assiste it is cheaper to go with PSC Motorsports kit. You get a modified PS pump, Resivior, Ram w/ hiems & mounting tabs, all the hoses and fittings.

You almost sound like you have done this before. :thefinger

The Rusty Rig Build (http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=230&highlight=steering)

J.J.
January 24th, 2006, 04:15 PM
http://www.samcofabrication.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=156&g2_serialNumber=2

shaweet! i like the fenders. now if only there was more pics..........

rusty_tlc
January 24th, 2006, 06:20 PM
You almost sound like you have done this before. :thefinger

The Rusty Rig Build (http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=230&highlight=steering)
:thefinger

rusty_tlc
January 24th, 2006, 06:40 PM
http://www.samcofabrication.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=156&g2_serialNumber=2

shaweet! i like the fenders. now if only there was more pics..........
The armor is very cool. The trim line is pretty standard for anybody running 36+ tires.
Twrecks is an exception to that rule. He just kept cutting until the rust was gone:eek: .

J.J.
January 24th, 2006, 06:51 PM
The armor is very cool. The trim line is pretty standard for anybody running 36+ tires.
Twrecks is an exception to that rule. He just kept cutting until the rust was gone:eek: .

you know what size tires samco is running on that fodee??

Samco Fab
January 24th, 2006, 07:17 PM
39.5 Iroc's

I am tired of waiting for parts on that F'n FJ :D I think I will have all the front end and engine parts in the next 3 weeks to finally finish that thing :maddance: That thing has been nothing but waiting for parts. I cant wait to take that thing out....over 400 horsepower 383, Turbo 400, Atlas, 16" of rear wt. with air bumps all around. Should be a fun dual sport rig.

rusty_tlc
January 24th, 2006, 07:17 PM
you know what size tires samco is running on that fodee??
Not sure.

J.J.
February 4th, 2006, 05:10 PM
9 hours and $1000 later, i got finally got the cruiser home. :woot: :woot: Me, my dad and Jason (yellowtj) got the biatch on the trailer, pulled out of the driveway, and !!!!POP!!! one of the trailer tires blew. We got the trailer jacked up, got 5 of the lug nuts off, and on the 6th lug nut, the nut siezed and the whole lug was spinning in the rim :mad:. So, we started chiseling away. And 3 bloody knuckles later, the sonofab!tch was off. There was no spare, so to Les Schwabies we went. Gave the tire to the girl at the front desk and guess what, a 2 and a half hour wait!!!! :mad: :maddance: Finally. They finished the tire and off we were, finally headed home. :woot:

Got home at 5:30 and took a really close look at everything on the truck. WOW!!! This thing is fawkin; sweet!!! The dash looks brand new, the windows still work, and the guy even gave me the original manuals!!! I wish car manuals these days had this much detail. They show how to take EVERYTHING apart and put it back together.

Now. the real work begins............:D

rusty_tlc
February 4th, 2006, 06:20 PM
The interior looks nice!
The only manuel that would have come with the truck is the center one. The one on the right is the Factory Service Manule (FSM on Mud), not sure about the one on the left maybe an old Haynes or Chilton. IIRC there are two FSM's one is for the engine and drive train the other for the chasis, including the axles and suspension.

Congradulations, you might re-think building this into a rock crawler. It looks like it may be restoration quality. If ther is no rust or bondo consider retoration or selling it to somebody who will take it back to factory. Not many resto quality rigs left.:(

J.J.
February 4th, 2006, 06:41 PM
The interior looks nice!
The only manuel that would have come with the truck is the center one. The one on the right is the Factory Service Manule (FSM on Mud), not sure about the one on the left maybe an old Haynes or Chilton. IIRC there are two FSM's one is for the engine and drive train the other for the chasis, including the axles and suspension.

Congradulations, you might re-think building this into a rock crawler. It looks like it may be restoration quality. If ther is no rust or bondo consider retoration or selling it to somebody who will take it back to factory. Not many resto quality rigs left.:(

i thought the same thing. the interior is forkin' nice!!! it's extremely clean except for the engine parts laying on the floor. the dash is as clean as it was when it came from the factory. it's a wonder how this thing is in such great shape after SITTING FOR 18 YEARS!!! i'm sure everything works fine except for the engine. the future for this cruiser is extremely vague. i just don't know what to do. do a factory resto, or build it into a rockcrawler. :dunno:

how much is this worth after a resto? i know that the value is only what someone is willing to pay for it, but how much can i get out of this thing? it would be really easy to do a frame-up on it, just needs a engine rebuild and some body work.

here's what it could look like when i'm done.

either this............
http://us.st11.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/coolfj40_1882_12756932

or this
http://us.st11.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/coolfj40_1883_20859691

rusty_tlc
February 4th, 2006, 07:01 PM
First figure out how much rust/bondo you are dealing with if any.

Look for rust along the rear sill plate below the back door, bottom edges of the doors, and where the inner brace meets the outside edge of the front fenders. Rust that is covered with paint will look bumpy.

Use a magnet to look for bondo.

72 Virginians
February 4th, 2006, 07:13 PM
Sweet rig. The old FJs are one of those vehicles that you just have to stop and take a second look.

J.J.
February 4th, 2006, 07:15 PM
First figure out how much rust/bondo you are dealing with if any.

Look for rust along the rear sill plate below the back door, bottom edges of the doors, and where the inner brace meets the outside edge of the front fenders. Rust that is covered with paint will look bumpy.

Use a magnet to look for bondo.


absolutely NO BONDO. besides surface rust here and there on the body and frame, the only real cancer is under the tailgate. the only "problem" i see is the spotwelds along the quarter panels a few inches above the top of the fenderwell. the engine is a little rusty, i'll take a closer look at it tomorow.

after realy looking for factory restored cruisers, slim to none. i honestly think that this is the route i should take. showroom quality factory resto, sell it, and THEN build my rockcrawler. like my dad said, "that thing is way too clean to just chop up and build a rockcrawler out of. find yourself a POS and THEN build your rockcrawler. you are a dumbass for even THINKING about fawking up that thing." (yes, he called me a dumbass :( )

i'll post more pics of the engine, interior, and underneath tomorrow when there is better light.

MR.ROCKAPE
February 4th, 2006, 07:30 PM
absolutely NO BONDO. besides surface rust here and there on the body and frame, the only real cancer is under the tailgate. the only "problem" i see is the spotwelds along the quarter panels a few inches above the top of the fenderwell. the engine is a little rusty, i'll take a closer look at it tomorow.

after realy looking for factory restored cruisers, slim to none. i honestly think that this is the route i should take. showroom quality factory resto, sell it, and THEN build my rockcrawler. like my dad said, "that thing is way too clean to just chop up and build a rockcrawler out of. find yourself a POS and THEN build your rockcrawler. you are a dumbass for even THINKING about fawking up that thing." (yes, he called me a dumbass :( )

i'll post more pics of the engine, interior, and underneath tomorrow when there is better light.
:rolleyes: YOU'LL BE BUILDIN THAT "ROCK CRAWLER" WHEN YOU ARE LIKE 50!!!THEY WERE ALL TOO CLEAN TO BUILD AT SOME POINT!!!JUST FIRE UP THE SAWZALL AND LET'ER RIP!!!!

rusty_tlc
February 4th, 2006, 07:33 PM
The spot welds are normal, that's the way they came from the factory.

If you just plan on selling it I wouldn't put the time or money into a restoration. To do a true "factory" restoration cost more than you will get out of the rig when you sell it. Doing a half assed restoration will only make it harder to do right later. You could make a profit selling it as is. Or get it running and sell it.

I would post on Mud and see what those guys think. There are guys with a lot more experience than me over there.

rusty_tlc
February 4th, 2006, 07:49 PM
:rolleyes: YOU'LL BE BUILDIN THAT "ROCK CRAWLER" WHEN YOU ARE LIKE 50!!!THEY WERE ALL TOO CLEAN TO BUILD AT SOME POINT!!!JUST FIRE UP THE SAWZALL AND LET'ER RIP!!!!

There just aren't many clean Cruisers left, unlike Jeeps which are as common as freckles on a redhead.

WTF is you with you guys and your effing caps key?

J.J.
February 4th, 2006, 07:51 PM
The spot welds are normal, that's the way they came from the factory.

If you just plan on selling it I wouldn't put the time or money into a restoration. To do a true "factory" restoration cost more than you will get out of the rig when you sell it. Doing a half assed restoration will only make it harder to do right later. You could make a profit selling it as is. Or get it running and sell it.

I would post on Mud and see what those guys think. There are guys with a lot more experience than me over there.

everything on it is from the factory. it all just needs some "sprucing up". you really think it'll cost that much? the only real money going into it would be for the engine rebuild. everything else, paint, upholstery, and bodywork would't cost THAT much.


YOU'LL BE BUILDIN THAT "ROCK CRAWLER" WHEN YOU ARE LIKE 50!!!THEY WERE ALL TOO CLEAN TO BUILD AT SOME POINT!!!JUST FIRE UP THE SAWZALL AND LET'ER RIP!!!!

we'll see 'bout that........never say never. maybe i WILL go mad LEATHERFACE-STYLE and hack da b!tch up!!!
http://www.dustcatchers.com/toys/sideshow/modernhorror/mmc-leatherface.jpg

rusty_tlc
February 4th, 2006, 08:18 PM
Are you going to match the factory colors when you paint? Get factory upholstery?
Use all TEQ parts on the engine rebuild? A true factory restoration will even use Toyota bolts because they are a different head size than normal metric hardware for certian applications.

It adds up fast.

Go read up on Mud thats where the Cruiser heads are.

72 Virginians
February 4th, 2006, 08:25 PM
Hmmm, a hard choice.

Dirty Harry
February 4th, 2006, 08:25 PM
everything on it is from the factory. it all just needs some "sprucing up". you really think it'll cost that much? the only real money going into it would be for the engine rebuild. everything else, paint, upholstery, and bodywork would't cost THAT much.


Restorations DO cost "that much". You are talking about replacing all seals, tie rod ends (those alone cost a fortune on a 40!), interior, it adds up quick. Not to mention your time and effort. You can turn a good profit on this thing to someone else who wants to do a restoration, and you aren't out anything at all. Then you can put that money towards another rig. I bet you could sell that Cruiser for enough that you would have a good chunk of the money you need to buy a built Toyota pickup pr Jeep off of Pirate.

J.J.
February 4th, 2006, 08:26 PM
Are you going to match the factory colors when you paint? Get factory upholstery?
Use all TEQ parts on the engine rebuild? A true factory restoration will even use Toyota bolts because they are a different head size than normal metric hardware for certian applications.

It adds up fast.

Go read up on Mud thats where the Cruiser heads are.

:eek: yikes. it does add up fast. i guess i didn't know that much was involved. i'm waiting on some info from the MUD guys.

i hear ya' harry, but i like this thing too much already. i don't want to just get rid of it this fast. but we'll see. my head hurts, thinking this much.

Dirty Harry
February 4th, 2006, 08:39 PM
I don't blame you, Cruisers are definitely cool. My father still has his that he bought new in '66. If you are just going to toss one tons under it and chop it up though there are a lot better (and less expensive) vehicles to start with.

J.J.
February 4th, 2006, 08:51 PM
I don't blame you, Cruisers are definitely cool. My father still has his that he bought new in '66. If you are just going to toss one tons under it and chop it up though there are a lot better (and less expensive) vehicles to start with.

yeah, but no. i think that i can do that for fairly "cheap". i have the "hookups" on parts so i think i could walk out of this with $$$$ left in my wallet :D

i also think i can build it up and still keep it tasteful, like keeping the WHOLE tub, and keep the "chopping" to a minimum. (maybe just a little trimming :D)

Sauce
February 4th, 2006, 10:30 PM
ah the purists, what a bunch of wierdos. You could always buy something that is in worse shape and chop it up, but I always like to start with a good, clean body and chassis when I am building, makes working on things a lot easier. My vote is for seat time, you will be building this forever, buy a built rig and get good at wheeling. You can always build something down the road :thumbsup:

J.J.
February 4th, 2006, 10:44 PM
ah the purists, what a bunch of wierdos. You could always buy something that is in worse shape and chop it up, but I always like to start with a good, clean body and chassis when I am building, makes working on things a lot easier. My vote is for seat time, you will be building this forever, buy a built rig and get good at wheeling. You can always build something down the road :thumbsup:


i don't want to buy someone else's built rig (or burden). i don't want to have to fix things they messed up or left out. i want to build something the way i want it and i want to know my vehicle inside and out.

you just bought a built rig. already you needed a new alternator, you are having problems with your hubs not being protected, your rig needs a shell, and you say you might need some engine work done. i know you are fine tweaking things on your new rig and doing things to really make it yours, but i don't wanna do all that.

but we'll see, you know how i am with changing my mind. :D :D

Sauce
February 4th, 2006, 11:05 PM
i don't want to buy someone else's built rig (or burden). i don't want to have to fix things they messed up or left out. i want to build something the way i want it and i want to know my vehicle inside and out.

you just bought a built rig. already you needed a new alternator, you are having problems with your hubs not being protected, your rig needs a shell, and you say you might need some engine work done. i know you are fine tweaking things on your new rig and doing things to really make it yours, but i don't wanna do all that.

but we'll see, you know how i am with changing my mind. :D :D
all of the things that went wrong on my truck are all part of buying ANY used vehicle. The alternator had 255,000 miles on it, so it is not surprising it let go, as far as the engine work is concerned, it actually ran great, and I could have kept running it if I didn't like doing things properly

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 11:37 AM
got it in the driveway this morning. now i can start working on the biatch. the engine looks pretty bad. i'm now thinking that a rebuild is out of the question. :( just for shits and giggles, i buffed some of the quarterpanel. paint don't look that bad. ;)

Connect
February 5th, 2006, 12:33 PM
haha, that engine shall never run again!!! That is without alot of $$$$...

I like the sock, holds something together right?

Sierra Valley
February 5th, 2006, 02:03 PM
The paint does look good besides the shit stain right down the middle of it. You should think long and hard on what you really want to do. It costs lots of money to build a stock rig into something thats has one tons, a running engine, lockers, onboard air, roll cages, rims, tires, gears, body protection, winch, bumpers etc and not to mention the labor hours and the tools you will need to buy to do all your junk. Even if you build most of it from the junkyard. Its much cheaper in the long run to buy a built rig, grant it there might be some shit you will have to deal with. Like my jeep, I though it was pretty decently built when I bought it and I probably pulled the trigger a little fast, but I knew I wanted a cj 7 that passed smog. I paid $5,700 and immediately I had valve cover leaks, tranny leaks that I had to deal w/ as well as lots of other things such as a very tired engine (blow bye) and none of the guages work, my frame keeps cracking in one spot, my 4high isnt working, had electrical problems, rust in the body. I've already got $3K into it and havent had it a year, grant it, I drive my rig harder and more often than most which in the end contributes to a lot of the problems. In the end I kind of wished I had new more before I bought, I probably would have bought a YJ that has fuel injection and a wider variety of after market sources. Theres just not as much manufactures for aftermarket stuff for a FJ 40 or a CJ 7, so take that into consideration. As samco said, he's still waiting on parts for that double dub:fro:

MR.ROCKAPE
February 5th, 2006, 02:13 PM
The paint does look good besides the shit stain right down the middle of it. You should think long and hard on what you really want to do. It costs lots of money to build a stock rig into something thats has one tons, a running engine, lockers, onboard air, roll cages, rims, tires, gears, body protection, winch, bumpers etc and not to mention the labor hours and the tools you will need to buy to do all your junk. Even if you build most of it from the junkyard. Its much cheaper in the long run to buy a built rig, grant it there might be some shit you will have to deal with. Like my jeep, I though it was pretty decently built when I bought it and I probably pulled the trigger a little fast, but I knew I wanted a cj 7 that passed smog. I paid $5,700 and immediately I had valve cover leaks, tranny leaks that I had to deal w/ as well as lots of other things that have broke and have gone wrong. In the end I kind of wished I had new more, I probably would have bought a YJ that has fuel injection and a wider variety of after market sources. Theres just not as much manufactures for aftermarket stuff for a FJ 40 or a CJ 7, so take that into consideration. As samco said, he's still waiting on parts for that double dub:fro:
WAIT,FOR A SECOND THERE SIERRA WAS MAKING SENSE!!!(WHO KNEW):thefinger
I WOULD SHOW YA A PIC OF THE RIG I JUST GOT BUT IT WOULD MAKE YA CRY!!!

ANYWAYS,RUNNING PROJECTS ARE MUCH MORE FUN PROJECTS,SO MAKE YOUR NEW FJ RUN ASAP,SO YOU CAN GO WHEELIN AND UPGRADE AS NEEDED!!!BECAUSE,YOU WILL GET TIRED OF WORKING AND SPENDING MONEY ON THAT FJ WITHOUT BEING TO BE ABLE TO TAKE IT OUT ONCE IN A WHILE!!!

Sierra Valley
February 5th, 2006, 02:14 PM
What kind of engine does that have in there right now? Inline 6 4.0? Im going to be swapping my 4.2 out of my heep for an amc 360 in the next month or so. I'll sell you my engine that I have now.

Dirty Harry
February 5th, 2006, 02:23 PM
Theres just not as much manufactures for aftermarket stuff for a FJ 40 or a CJ 7, so take that into consideration.

You had me up until this point. I think that there is a large aftermarket (especially compared to the Nissan he is coming from) for CJs and FJs, but parts aren't cheap. That means you either have to open up your wallet or make it yourself.



As samco said, he's still waiting on parts for that double dub:fro:

The rig in Sam's shop has no Toyota drivetrain left. He is waiting on a ring gear spacer for the front Dodge Dana 61 axle.




ANYWAYS,RUNNING PROJECTS ARE MUCH MORE FUN PROJECTS,SO MAKE YOUR NEW FJ RUN ASAP,SO YOU CAN GO WHEELIN AND UPGRADE AS NEEDED!!!BECAUSE,YOU WILL GET TIRED OF WORKING AND SPENDING MONEY ON THAT FJ WITHOUT BEING TO BE ABLE TO TAKE IT OUT ONCE IN A WHILE!!!

Ape is right. My main wheeling rig hasn't run in a LONG time, and it sucks to take out my driver or ride with someone else after a while. Plus, the way you change your mind Hardbody (I am guilty of this too) I bet you are going to get half way through this project and change your mind about something major, costing you even more time and money.



What kind of engine does that have in there right now? Inline 6 4.0? Im going to be swapping my 4.2 out of my heep for an amc 360 in the next month or so. I'll sell you my engine that I have now.

The FJ-40 does have an inline 6 but your Jeep motor will not swap into it easily.

Sierra Valley
February 5th, 2006, 02:24 PM
WAIT,FOR A SECOND THERE SIERRA WAS MAKING SENSE!!!(WHO KNEW):thefinger
I WOULD SHOW YA A PIC OF THE RIG I JUST GOT BUT IT WOULD MAKE YA CRY!!!

ANYWAYS,RUNNING PROJECTS ARE MUCH MORE FUN PROJECTS,SO MAKE YOUR NEW FJ RUN ASAP,SO YOU CAN GO WHEELIN AND UPGRADE AS NEEDED!!!BECAUSE,YOU WILL GET TIRED OF WORKING AND SPENDING MONEY ON THAT FJ WITHOUT BEING TO BE ABLE TO TAKE IT OUT ONCE IN A WHILE!!!


Rock ape is right, you will get so fed up of not being able to go out and wheel b/c you have it torn apart so much and spending thousands of dollars. Check out the deals and wheels, 2nd or 3rd page. Built FJ 40 blue for $7,900 in excellent shape. That thing would be cheaper in the long run than all the money you will have to put in that FJ40 just to get it to look like this one
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/KDpics274.jpg

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 02:25 PM
:no: never will i buy a built rig. that's just me. it's just a ticking time bomb. i'll just be waiting for something to fu*k up. whether it's running or not makes no difference on whether the project is fun or not. what will make this fun for me, is having a rig that I built, something few people have, and just the fact that i built something from the pile of shit i started with. and the icing on the cake..........having a rig not running for a few months and finally starting it up and taking it out for a test drive. obviously my idea of fun isn't the same as yours. but buying a built rig is out of the question. this thing WILL BE restored, just don't know how far i'll go with it yet. so please stop beating a dead horse and just maybe give me some help or opinions along the way of my build. :D

Sierra Valley
February 5th, 2006, 02:30 PM
Harry your right, there are aftermarket stuff for the older jeeps and toys, but nothing compared to the newer ones and as you said its all very very expensive. Or you have to make it yourself or find somebody who can.

JJ if your plan is to go out and play w/ the big boys and beat your rig up in the rocks, then why destroy such a nice looking fj 40, keep that thing to work on as you go, keep it nice w/ some 35's or something and no cutting. Buy yourself a cheap toyota pickup and and beat it up.

As for buying used and having things break, your going to have the same problem with anything that you build, things break all the time when your out pushing yours and your rigs limits:dunno:

Sierra Valley
February 5th, 2006, 02:33 PM
BTW, I knew my engine wouldnt work to well in his. Just playing around. But what kind of inline 6 is it. Who made it.?

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 02:38 PM
Harry your right, there are aftermarket stuff for the older jeeps and toys, but nothing compared to the newer ones and as you said its all very very expensive. Or you have to make it yourself or find somebody who can.

JJ if your plan is to go out and play w/ the big boys and beat your rig up in the rocks, then why destroy such a nice looking fj 40, keep that thing to work on as you go, keep it nice w/ some 35's or something and no cutting. Buy yourself a cheap toyota pickup and and beat it up.

As for buying used and having things break, your going to have the same problem with anything that you build, things break all the time when your out pushing yours and your rigs limits:dunno:

trust me, this thing won't be no beater. i really won't be destroying anything, just replacing what's broke. it's going to all be taken apart, no matter what, so why not sell parts off it, and replace them with bigger and better stuff? and as for breaking stuff, the point of this build is to build something that WON'T break.

Dirty Harry
February 5th, 2006, 03:06 PM
The engine is a Toyota 2F, but much of the design was taken from Chevy's 225 inline 6 cylinder. They are torquey but low on power and VERY heavy.

Hardbody I think that the reason you are getting the advice you are getting is because you are all over the map. You say that you "won't be destroying anything" but a while ago you wanted a buggy. If you take a Land Cruiser on buggy lines it WILL get destroyed.

-What is your budget?
-What is your timeline?
-What is your goal? Resto? Capable wheeler? Hardcore crawler?
-What components do you plan to change?
-What components do you intend to keep?

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 04:20 PM
Hardbody I think that the reason you are getting the advice you are getting is because you are all over the map. You say that you "won't be destroying anything" but a while ago you wanted a buggy. If you take a Land Cruiser on buggy lines it WILL get destroyed.

-What is your budget?
-What is your timeline?
-What is your goal? Resto? Capable wheeler? Hardcore crawler?
-What components do you plan to change?
-What components do you intend to keep?

i am aware of "being all over the map", but that's the way i am with EVERYTHING, and i appologize. everything i have said is just me brainstorming.

just cause i want or wanted a buggy doesn't mean that that's what's gonna happen to my cruiser. this thing is sweet and i don't want to chop it up. i really want something "hardcore", but that's probably not the right route i should take with this cruiser, i know that. so my plans are staying similair to what i drew out at the beginning of this thread.

after listening to everyone here and on MUD, i DO want to get this thing done ASAP, but still done right. so here's the "plan". THESE ARE JUST THOUGHTS.

-Budget---whatever it takes to get it done
-Timeline---however long it takes to get it done.
-Goal---a restored rig that's extremely capable
-Compenents to be changed---whatever is broken or needs to be be imroved on
-Components to be kept---everything but the motor.(still don't know yet)

*TBI 350 mated to stock tranny
*orion t-case
*new gears, aussie lockers/detroits, upgrades to axles to be able to hold 37-39.5" tires

rusty_tlc
February 5th, 2006, 06:22 PM
I read recently that the F/2F engine was built under license from GMC, on the internet, take it for what it's worth. I would belive it since I have used a lot of chevy parts over the years with almost no modification ( as little as tapping from SAE to metric).

With the recent popularity of 40's (again) there are a TON of after market parts available, it is a very popular rig. They do cost more since the market is smaller. Trust me on this one I just spent a lot of money on after market parts. ;)

2F engines are easy to come by if you just want to swap in a working engine in. Lots of guys are pulling 2F's that run great to put SBC's in. IMHO this is a step backwards, and yes I have driven both.

If you want to build a hardcore trail rig I would start with a mini truck. You can build it and get it wrong a half dozen time for what it would cost to do the same with an FJ40. The ONLY reason I didn't build a mini is I couldn't bear to part with my 40 and couldn't have two rigs.

rusty_tlc
February 5th, 2006, 06:28 PM
...
*new gears, aussie lockers/detroits, upgrades to axles to be able to hold 37-39.5" tires
Your going to do all this shit and put fawking aussie lockers under the rig!!!
Dude grow up, you need to learn a whole lot more before you start this project.

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 06:36 PM
Your going to do all this shit and put fawking aussie lockers under the rig!!!
Dude grow up, you need to learn a whole lot more before you start this project.

hey hey, just an idea see the /detroits? :D i'm learning as i go. i'll figure everything out eventually, i always do.

someday i might build a "hardcore" rig, but for now this'll just be a trail rig. i'd still like to drive it around on the road, so it can't be "hardcore".

Sierra Valley
February 5th, 2006, 06:55 PM
Your wanting to do one thing but then the other. If your looking to go w/ Aussies but pimp this ride? The only reason I used a lock rite locker is that I new it would only be short term until I get full size axles. You need to buy a beater toy, do some things to it first, find out what you like, what you dont. Get some seat time driving an actual off road rig, no offense but the nissan doesnt quite qualify as wheelin time even though you drive the piss out of it. Trust me, I had been driving out in the woods since I was 16 driving forest service rigs and I though I knew a thing or two about wheelin, all I knew was how to rally the hell out of Green Pick-ups.

As for not hacking the body up, good luck. I made it almost a 9 months and my the body was straight, then I got the sawz all out (how do you spell that?). I still feal that you ought to keep the fj40 as a project, work on it as time and money permits. Throw a toy axle in it and drive the hell out of it for the mean time.

rusty_tlc
February 5th, 2006, 06:56 PM
hey hey, just an idea see the /detroits? :D i'm learning as i go. i'll figure everything out eventually, i always do.

someday i might build a "hardcore" rig, but for now this'll just be a trail rig. i'd still like to drive it around on the road, so it can't be "hardcore".
Detroits?
Still not getting it. :thefinger

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 07:02 PM
not getting it? bullshit, i get it. i know what i'm doing. :D

if you're implying an ARB..........fawk no
if you're implying LS diffs.........fawk no

Sauce
February 5th, 2006, 07:40 PM
Have you ever wheeled with a front locker? I have a lunchbox locker in my manche and an arb in my new rig, the difference is night and day. When I want to make a tight turn, I just turn off the arb. The way you talk, I can tell you want to do hardcore trails, this usually means some body damage (just the way things are, unavoidable most times), decide what you want to do and do it. If you are doing a 350 swap, why don't you run an auto, you will like it better on the rocks (since it will take more gearing to get a decent crawl ratio). As far as having an unlimited budget, unless you or your parents are rich, get used to having a budget, it will make or break a project. As far as you having it driving in 2 months, dream on. Oh yeah, good luck!

Sierra Valley
February 5th, 2006, 07:48 PM
Yes he will want to be out on the hard trails for sure, and he'll have such a hard-on getting out in it the first time, he's going give it some skinny break a rear axle, then rock up the body trying to get out of the hole he's in. Then he'll have no other choice than to turn the 40 into yotapowers rig:best:

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 07:54 PM
Have you ever wheeled with a front locker? I have a lunchbox locker in my manche and an arb in my new rig, the difference is night and day. When I want to make a tight turn, I just turn off the arb. The way you talk, I can tell you want to do hardcore trails, this usually means some body damage (just the way things are, unavoidable most times), decide what you want to do and do it. If you are doing a 350 swap, why don't you run an auto, you will like it better on the rocks (since it will take more gearing to get a decent crawl ratio). As far as having an unlimited budget, unless you or your parents are rich, get used to having a budget, it will make or break a project. As far as you having it driving in 2 months, dream on. Oh yeah, good luck!

i HAVE wheeled a bronco with a front detroit, it wasn't THAT bad. ok, arbs are cool.......but i'd never run one. and when did i say 2 months? :D this, i estimate to take around oh say, 6 mos. give or take a month or two. and i'm ok with that.

as for the auto, i'd like to have one, but it would be SO much easier to keep the stock 4spd and t-case.

and for the budget, my parents don't pay for shit....like i have said before, i don't have a tuition to pay, no bills besides insurance, i make good money, etc. etc. etc.......so, all in all, i have the $$$ to build this rig.

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 07:56 PM
Yes he will want to be out on the hard trails for sure, and he'll have such a hard-on getting out in it the first time, he's going give it some skinny break a rear axle, then rock up the body trying to get out of the hole he's in. Then he'll have no other choice than to turn the 40 into yotapowers rig:best:


body damage??? hard trails?? paleeeeaaassssee. have you seen the nissan??? i don't give a shit about body damage. i can fix it. :D

no broken axles though, i DON'T have an AMC 20 so i think i'll be ok :thefinger :D

rusty_tlc
February 5th, 2006, 08:10 PM
Lets leave lockers aside for now. ARBs are crap anyway what kind of fool would put them under a rig?

Are you going to do a SOA?

Sauce
February 5th, 2006, 08:15 PM
Lets leave lockers aside for now. ARBs are crap anyway what kind of fool would put them under a rig?

Are you going to do a SOA?
one that has more money than sense. I don't like the fact that they rely on both an electric and an air source, too many things to go wrong :yes: On the bright side, they do work as good as a welded axle with great street manners :D

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 08:18 PM
Lets leave lockers aside for now. ARBs are crap anyway what kind of fool would put them under a rig?

Are you going to do a SOA?

yeah, i'll figure the diffs out when i get there.

i have thought of doing the same thing you have done to your cruiser, only i am going to do a frame-up and clean up the rust, remove dings, and repaint it. i will like to do:

*SOA conversion
*power steering conversion (hydro-assist??? :dunno:)
*SBC conversion
*orion t-case

i would like to keep the original drivetrain and just mate a SBC to the stock 4spd.

rusty_tlc
February 5th, 2006, 08:41 PM
one that has more money than sense. I don't like the fact that they rely on both an electric and an air source, too many things to go wrong :yes: On the bright side, they do work as good as a welded axle with great street manners :D
Yeah there is that, mine have had two problems in eight years, broken air line (just got brittle), and bad O-ring in the pump. ARB makes such crap product.

I should probably pull them and weld my diffs up huh?:no:

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 08:45 PM
ok, i went looking for info on my cruiser. tranny, t-case, engine, etc. and came across this --------------> http://www.marks4wd.com/lc-fj40-info.htm. it says that i shouldn't have a 2f engine. :scratch: where else can i find RELIABLE info??

rusty_tlc
February 5th, 2006, 08:46 PM
yeah, i'll figure the diffs out when i get there.

i have thought of doing the same thing you have done to your cruiser, only i am going to do a frame-up and clean up the rust, remove dings, and repaint it. i will like to do:

*SOA conversion
*power steering conversion (hydro-assist??? :dunno:)
*SBC conversion
*orion t-case

i would like to keep the original drivetrain and just mate a SBC to the stock 4spd.
Stick with the SOA for a minute.
What components will you use?

J.J.
February 5th, 2006, 08:54 PM
Stick with the SOA for a minute.
What components will you use?

i'll probably use proffitts kit for the front, but i can always do the "cut and turn" myself. for the rear, i'll might use all pro's nifty perches. i'll definately need new springs, oem replacements most likely.
http://www.allprooffroad.com/images/stories/suspension/spring_stack_l.jpg

rusty_tlc
February 6th, 2006, 07:25 AM
You are aware that you can get the perches for $30 a pair from Summit right?

Dirty Harry
February 6th, 2006, 08:54 AM
You are aware that you can get the perches for $30 a pair from Summit right?

I am getting your point, but I'm not sure that everyone else is. ;)

J.J.
February 6th, 2006, 03:40 PM
i said i MIGHT use them. ;) i know i can get cheap ones at summit, but i like these because they eliminate the u-bolts and come with shock mounts on the top of them. (not shown in the pic)

J.J.
February 12th, 2006, 12:45 PM
today i got the interior all cleaned out. starting to get a huge junk pile.

the floor is in WAY better shape than i thought it would be in. no rust besides a little surface rust in the passenger side footwell (i used a flap wheel on the rust and it just took it right off. i'm so glad that no sheetmetal needs to be repaired).

i found the grill in the pile of shit in the back and put it back on. now it looks like a cruiser ;) . hopefully next weekend i can take everything off but the tub.

rusty_tlc
February 13th, 2006, 11:26 AM
Umm , your bezel is on upside down.

Dirty Harry
February 13th, 2006, 11:31 AM
Umm , your bezel is on upside down.

ZZZING! Score one for Rusty. :nutkick:

rusty_tlc
February 13th, 2006, 11:35 AM
ZZZING! Score one for Rusty. :nutkick:
Think of what would have happened if he posted that pic on Mud.

The bezel police would have been all over him.

J.J.
February 13th, 2006, 03:52 PM
Umm , your bezel is on upside down.

i honestly don't know what you are talking about. :scratch:

how did i put it on upside down? i just don't see it. :dunno:

rusty_tlc
February 13th, 2006, 06:06 PM
The bezel is shown in the correct orientation in this picture
http://us.st11.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/coolfj40_1884_94569896

Uhh look a little further to the right.:D

J.J.
February 13th, 2006, 06:12 PM
awwwwwwwwwwwwwww, now i get it. :D

it was that way when i pulled it out of the cruiser. now why would someone do this? :scratch:

rusty_tlc
February 13th, 2006, 06:22 PM
It fits either way, oddly most people put it back on upside down if they take it off for some reason. A few, actually almost all, of the guys on Mud get a big bang out of calling Noobs on their bezel.

J.J.
February 13th, 2006, 06:27 PM
It fits either way, oddly most people put it back on upside down if they take it off for some reason. A few, actually almost all, of the guys on Mud get a big bang out of calling Noobs on their bezel.

he he, uhhhhh...........better go change it :nervous: :runhide: