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Sauce
July 5th, 2005, 07:40 AM
I am going to paint my jeep and was wondering where I could get some kubota orange on the cheap. I was also wondering what I needed to do to make it look like a decent paint job (somewhere between rattle can and maaco). My buddy has a paint gun, and I will be doing most of the work. Any and all suggestions for sources are appreciated...

Sauce
July 5th, 2005, 07:43 AM
anybody have any experience with this stuff?
http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=4&paID=1032&sonID=456&productID=52

rusty_tlc
July 5th, 2005, 08:24 AM
I watched a guy paint his car in his driveway at the old house. I looked at the car later and you would swear it was done in a shop. He worked early in the morning while it was calm and wet everything (driveway, planters, etc.) down before he started. He also spent a month of weekends on prep.

KYOTA
July 5th, 2005, 09:12 AM
Yep its all about the prep. how nice do you want it to turn out= how much time spend on prep. I'm restoring a 69 GMC 3/4 4wd in my MIL's garage that I spent a weekend converting to a paint booth, cleaning, plumbing for air, and sheeting everything with visquene (sp). everything I've done so far has turned out nice. If I was closer I'd offer up my services to you. Have you gone to an automotive paint supplier? they should be able to mix up any color you want and depending on what line (DuPont, PPG, Nason etc.) you go with will determine cost. I'm using Nason which is DuPont's budget line of finishes and I have no complaints. Remember that the tractor paint is probably just enamel which means a whole different application compared to a 2 part system (basecoat clearcoat) but then again it comes back to cost. I got enough primer, sealer, base (color) and clear to do a full size GM truck for right around $300. Go talk to the guys at the paint supplier they will help you the most. And theres nothing wrong with a driveway job, but like rusty said, try to plan it around after a rain for dust control.

rusty_tlc
July 5th, 2005, 09:26 AM
...try to plan it around after a rain for dust control.
:lolrun:
Your gonna love it down here. Plan around rain... your killing me. :lolrun:

KYOTA
July 5th, 2005, 09:28 AM
there I go talking about rain in the desert again can you tell I'm from Oregon?

Sauce
July 5th, 2005, 09:58 AM
there I go talking about rain in the desert again can you tell I'm from Oregon?
thanks kyota, I like how bones truck on pirate turned out, so I will probably go the tractor paint route. My junk is going to be scratched and dented anyway, so I just want to look good for cheap. Any tips for prep? I figured I could just sand down my old paint (it is white) and paint over the top. If I do, will i look like ish?

Sauce
July 5th, 2005, 10:03 AM
here are some pics of bones rig...
84 Toyota Cab/Chassis for sale $1100 - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350774)

KYOTA
July 5th, 2005, 10:39 AM
think of it this way, your rig has allready been primered and sealed under the paint right? so there is no sense in sanding all that off, use it to your advantage. you'll need to scuff the entire surface tho to give the new topcoat something to stick to. First off you need to get some lacquer thinner or a specific degreaser and wipe the whole thing down you dont want to grind wax or any grease into the paint the new paint wont like that. Then I'd hit the whole thing using a DA sander with 200 or 220 just to scuff the surface, going into the primer is ok just try not to go to bare metal. blow it off then wipe it down again with the thinner, then wipe it down again prior to painting.

Sauce
July 5th, 2005, 10:41 AM
think of it this way, your rig has allready been primered and sealed under the paint right? so there is no sense in sanding all that off, use it to your advantage. you'll need to scuff the entire surface tho to give the new topcoat something to stick to. First off you need to get some lacquer thinner or a specific degreaser and wipe the whole thing down you dont want to grind wax or any grease into the paint the new paint wont like that. Then I'd hit the whole thing using a DA sander with 200 or 220 just to scuff the surface, going into the primer is ok just try not to go to bare metal. blow it off then wipe it down again with the thinner, then wipe it down again prior to painting.
great advice kyota! what part of oregon do you live in, I never caught which city you live in.

KYOTA
July 5th, 2005, 10:43 AM
about 50 miles north of Portland

Zebaru
July 5th, 2005, 10:53 AM
I have painted a few rigs with regular ol' Rustoleum enamel, and the results were pretty good. The quality of the finish was fair, and better than some cheapo Maaco type jobs I have seen. The paint itself faded quickly, but that sort of thing would be remedied with a higher quality paint like a tractor enamel.

Prep work was always very minimal, and I never had any problems with peeling, etc. except for where I painted over rust and that sort of thing. In fact, I never even washed my Subaru before I painted it - just a light sanding. Seven years later, it is holding up remarkably well.

White is easily the best color to paint over. You should be fine giving it a quick wet sand with something fine like 320-400 or something, pulling all the trim you can, masking the rest, and then just shooting right over the top. The results won't be show quality or anything, but the average joe walking down the street probably won't even know you did it (if you used a regular color).

Travis

Sauce
July 5th, 2005, 11:01 AM
any ideas on where I could pick up some tractor enamel? Thanks for the firsthand advice on the enamel, what kind of gun did you use travis? Any tips for wetsanding, I don't have any experience with it?

rusty_tlc
July 5th, 2005, 11:07 AM
any ideas on where I could pick up some tractor enamel? Thanks for the firsthand advice on the enamel, what kind of gun did you use travis? Any tips for wetsanding, I don't have any experience with it?
Wet sanding is just what is sounds like. Get a 5 gal bucket of water and wash your wet/dry paper often to prevent it getting "loaded". Use a circular motion and the sanding marks won't show as much.
Kelly Moore is a distrubitor for Rustolem commercial products.

Sauce
July 5th, 2005, 11:23 AM
thanks for the lead on kelly moore. Where does one find this so called "wet/dry" sand paper? Also, the paint I was looking for came from Tractor Supply Company, which we do not have here, it is really cheap (like $20 for a gallon). Also, ideas for a "cheap" clear coat so it stays shiny longer (they don't call me the king of bling for nothing, right)?

rusty_tlc
July 5th, 2005, 11:34 AM
thanks for the lead on kelly moore. Where does one find this so called "wet/dry" sand paper? Also, the paint I was looking for came from Tractor Supply Company, which we do not have here, it is really cheap (like $20 for a gallon). Also, ideas for a "cheap" clear coat so it stays shiny longer (they don't call me the king of bling for nothing, right)?
Wet/dry is available at Lowes or Home Depot, it's the black or gray stuff and will say "Wet/Dry" on the back.
I think there's a Tractor Supply in Falon, just this side of town on 50.
At $20/gal I doubt you'll be happy with the results for long. Plain old latex house paint cost more than that.
It would probably be cheaper to use better quality paint to begin with than add another coat of something else for shine.

Sauce
July 5th, 2005, 11:36 AM
actually, I have heard a lot of good stuff about the paint, believe it or not. Oh well, we will just have to see how it turns out.

Zebaru
July 5th, 2005, 11:58 AM
The store outside Fallon is a 'Big R', but they might carry some tractor paints. The big deal with choosing a cheap enamel is the UV resistance. Most typical hardware store enamels dont stand up to the light very well, and fade quickly. The lighter the color, the less of a problem this is. Red for instance is horrible. The rig I painted red was a pinkish color in about two years. My Subaru is tan, and would probably look about as good as new if I washed/waxed it.

That tractor paint should hold up to the elements pretty well if it is intended for use on tractors. The factory paint is of reasonable quality, but if you are planning on buying some aftermarket stuff that is simply color matched, who knows... If the word on the street is that it is pretty good, then it probably is.

BTW, I have also painted over the low quality stuff with a proper automotive finish and it still looks fine ten years later (almost). So there is little to lose by giving the cheap stuff a shot. I say buy a gallon and go for it. At worst you are out twenty five or thirty bucks and a day of your time.

Travis

KYOTA
July 5th, 2005, 01:17 PM
something to consider is you cant just shoot clear over anything, the base/clear needs to be a system . remember these are chemicals and they work together, clear on enamel may do some wierd sh*t. Also I wouoldnt waste my time wet sanding, wet sanding is for super fine feathering or finish sanding clear to get a perfect finish. save the wet sanding for after you've painted it and you want to knock down the orange peel.

MR.ROCKAPE
July 5th, 2005, 06:25 PM
thanks kyota, I like how bones truck on pirate turned out, so I will probably go the tractor paint route. My junk is going to be scratched and dented anyway, so I just want to look good for cheap. Any tips for prep? I figured I could just sand down my old paint (it is white) and paint over the top. If I do, will i look like ish?
Yeah right scratched and dented??? :bs: I dont think so!!I think that thing has had enough drivetrain carnage on road ,if you take it offroad it will explode.And CAT orange would be cooler.Call the heavy equipment places .Im sure you would be happy with a single stage paint job,two stage paint would be a waste for a pure offroader :rolleyes: (read:MALL WHEELER)