4x4 and off road related tech discussions.
anyone know about
5 Hours Ago
FMF Burly pipe leaks!
July 11th, 2010
Replaced V belt
1 Week Ago
The original Bronco was an ORV (Off-Road Vehicle), intended to compete primarily with Jeep CJ models and the International Harvester Scout. The Bronco's small size (92 in wheelbase) made it popular for off-roading and some other uses, but impractical for such things as towing. The Bronco was Ford's first compact SUV, and Ford's compact SUV place would be taken by the Ford Bronco II (1984-1990), and the Ford Escape (2001-present). The idea behind the Bronco began with Ford product manager Donald N. Frey, who also conceived of the Ford Mustang; and similarly, Lee Iacocca pushed the idea through into production. In many ways, the Bronco was a more original concept than the Mustang; whereas the Mustang was based upon the Ford Falcon, the Bronco had a frame, suspension, and body that were not shared with any other vehicle. The Bronco was designed under engineer Paul G. Axelrad. Although the axles and brakes were sourced from the Ford F-100 four wheel drive pickup truck, the front...
Here's a list of shops in the Reno area. It's not a comprehensive list by any means. Feel free to add any shops that you think are good places to go. Tell em Justin from Lithia Jeep sent ya. Independent Shops: Martin's Auto Service 2150 Mill Street 954-2027 Monkey Wrench 3075 S Virginia Street
This is by no means a complete history. Just a guide to identify Jeeps. I probably left out some information so, just post up a correction. Thanks. :thumbsup:
* 1948: Land Rover is designed by the Wilks Brothers and is manufactured by the Rover Car Company * 1958: Series II launched * 1961: Series IIA began production * 1967: Rover becomes part of Leyland Motors Ltd, later British Leyland (BL) as Rover Triumph. * 1970: Introduction of the Range Rover * 1971: Series III launched. * 1975: BL collapses and is nationalised, publication of the Ryder Report recommends that Land Rover be split from Rover and be treated as a separate company within BL and becomes part of the new commercial vehicle division called the Land Rover Leyland Group * 1976: One millionth Land Rover leaves the production line. * 1978: Land Rover Limited formed as a separate subsidiary of British Leyland * 1980: Rover car production ends at Solihull with the transfer of SD1 production to Cowley, Oxford; Solihull is now exclusively for Land Rover manufacture. 5-door Range Rover introduced.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCUmZegW7kI&eurl=http://www.carlustblog.com/2008/06/car-lust--inter.html The International Harvester Scout was one of the first production American civilian off-road sport utility vehicles. It was originally created as a competitor to the Jeep, and like that vehicle, early models featured fold-down windshields. The first generation Scout and second generation Scout II were produced as two-door vehicles with options of a half cab pickup truck or a removable full hard or soft top. Scouts were manufactured from 1961 to 1980 in Fort Wayne, Indiana. * Scout 80/800 (1961–1971): The original production model * Scout 810 (1971): Some early Scout II's contain Scout 810 badging on the glove box. * Scout II (1971–1980): The later standard production model with a removable soft or hardtop (100 in wheelbase). * Scout II Terra (1976–1980): The light pickup truck version (118 in wheelbase).
It's not as detailed as the Jeep thread so, please add more info if I have missed anything (after I get done). I'll reopen the thread once I finish everything. Thanks for your patience. :thumbsup:
Is it hard to come across an I6 for an old CJ 5? also can anyone give me their thoughts on a CJ 5 with an I6. good, bad??????
I want to find someone who knows how to work on an engine that has a carburator, distributor, and no computer ! The Banana Slug hasn't been running for several months now, ever since I got frustrated and stepped away. It has several problems to be fixed... 1. The carburator was rebuilt by another "friend" on this forum and whether he did something wrong or if it just needs propper adjustment, I don't know. Since he changed it, it hasn't run as well since. 2. The starter solenoid keeps failing on me. One time it turned over the engine several times then quit. Now it just quit and does nothing. May be an electrical problem 3. The distributor is frozen in the engine. The stalk that normally turns to adjust timing won't budge at all. May have to force it out and replace (I think I can get one from DarenY)
I was talking to one of my friends and i was thinking how hard would it be to find a cj front clip with round lights and put it on my yj with square lights... im just curious
They do have their own product to pimp, but the numbers still speak volumes. So, when you buy spacers, be aware of the differences. http://blog.spidertrax.com/2010/09/02/domestic-vs-import-wheel-spacers-mechanical-material-analysis/
not sure were to post this, so here it goes. I have a fiberglass antenna for the 4x4 repeater. It is about 22 feet long. I would like to have the fiberglass gel coat redone on the antenna. Not knowing squat about how to do this. I am hoping there is someone on the board who can lend a hand or explain how this is done. In hopes that this would be the same as a fender or other fiberglass work. The rules are. 1) the color of the gel, or the coating itself CAN NOT have any type of metal or conductive properties. This will ruin the antenna. 2) The antenna needs to flex, so the coating can not make it so still that it will snap in half.
I am looking to changr a output shaft in my turbo 400 does anyone have a little experience wirh these? I have never had a auto apart and have been told that it is not that easy so looking for some help> please let me know
I'm having problems going up hill in my little 4 cyl with 31's YJ. Anything cheap and easy I can do to get a couple more hp? I've heard cold air intake, electric fan, etc. Any idea's short of 4.0L swap. Hell; even if you have any info on cost and pain in the ass factor about that swap throw it in here.
im more curious than willing, but how much would it be to do the spring over my my yj, (just the stock springs on top of the axle) i know its basically easy but its my daily driver so i dont wanna mess anything up, so does anyone in town do this for a reasonable price? thx
So i took the plunge today and decided to try painting just the hood of the 4Runner Rustoleum Flat Black. I bought 1 quart at walmart for around $8 and some other things like rollers and a paint tray. I already had a grinder and sandpaper, etc. If i like how it turns out ill do the rest of the rig. If not its only about $11 and a few hours of my time down the drain. The hood before prep and paint. It had something chunked on it that looked like sap but really hard. Sanded down, all the chunks grinded off, and washed. I could have done a better job but its still a trail rig in the end. Took me maybe 5 or 10 minutes and its smooth to the touch after i washed it.
any tips or tricks to getting it back in with the new o ring? I am struggling. Or even if there is someone to help me with it tonight. that would be awesome. it is my moms Jeep and I am at a loss for how to make it all fit together in there. thanks
Hello All, I found this pic the other day of a Manx Buggy Build. I am considering this for my next project. I was told that this one was built on a samurai frame, not sure if that is true or not. I was thinking more along a CJ frame. Any ideas or assistance would be helpful in my decision. Thanks all Ed
So the other day i pulled my motor to redo all my gaskets and seals. and when we pulled the head off of my 22r we came across something kinda weird. Does anyone know what kind of pistons these are?
I am totally unfamiliar with toyotas, pretty much everything mechanical about them. I've heard good things about yota front ends though. Are they all pass side drop? Where do they fall in strength compared to a 30, 44 and 60? What are more reasons to go with one of these instead of 44? What are some down sides? What are the locker options? Are they mostly drum or disc? I know they use birfields, right, so how are the knuckles setup? I'm used to the dana knuckles, so how different are they... they are different right, lol? Chromo shafts readily available?
Hey guys and girls, Its been a few months since I've contacted Air Sierra about his build on his turbo TJ and after searching and aquiring parts from just about everywhere i'm ready to get started. There will be many photos to come and hopefully fairly detailed posts. Because I didn't buy the whole motor I had to piece together parts. The Turbo and manifold are from an SRT-4 neon which is the same as the PT Cruiser. However, when I received the turbo I realized that it didn't come with the wastegate or the BOV. It also didn't come with any oil lines. I suggest anyone who do this build find someone that will sell all of that. Especially if your working on a budget. You can get those from Dodge but it might cost an arm and a leg. I spent weeks trying to track down used parts and eventually found the BOV and wastegate on Ebay. The coolant fittings on the turbo I had to have made by my local hose shop. Luckily my friend who is helping me has some tdo5 turbos around his shop and I was...
Calling all XJ experts.... 1990 XJ, somebody popped the ignition with a screwdrivre, the only way to start is with a set of pliars!!!! Heres the question, Does the whole steering colum need to be replaced or is there just a way to replace the top half?? Anybody out there have any parts they want to part with?? Mike
A big thanks to Tom Moser (XJMoser) for an oustanding job installing new electric power windows in my Rubicon. They work great. Also thanks to Justin (72 Virginians) for advising me to contact Tom. These are made by Electric Life and are a bolt-in (really). Don't laugh - with the recent surgery on both hands (too much fun on HLT with the chain saw and trimmer) I don't have to grasp the crank handle. The power windows are cool. Phil
My rear track bar bolt keeps comin loose on my axle bracket. I got torqued down waaaay hard last time and it still loosened up in less than a month. Any idea's? Also if anyone has a steering wheel puller I could use, I got some beers with your name on it?:cool: 89 YJ btw.
i just lifted my tj and put on 33x 12.50's, and now my gearing is all messed up. fifth gear is totally useless you are coasting down Mt Rose Hwy. i would like to swap my 3.73's for 4.56's. does anyone know if i can use the same carriers?
What is a good set of lights to put on my tj? I've had hella 500s and didn't really like them all that much. Would like to try something new, possibly PIAA 520s, but don't know that they're worth the coin.
I am running a fuel cell in my CJ7 with a TPI 350 and an external fuel pump. the pump is so loud that i cannot stand it anymore. i have to have 45 PSI constand to the motor. does anyone know of a quieter pump that will not break the bank?
Im building a rear bumper with swing away for my dad's 04 Rubicon. It's going to have a swing away with dual gas/water NATO can holders, maybe a high lift mount, and a low profile rack above the tire. It's going to bolt to the frame and crossmember in 14 different places since my dad wants to tow his jumping jack trailer. The gas can and rack will be made mostly out of 1" .065 HREW, so they will be extremly light. The brackets are 1/4" plate, and the tubing is 1.75" .188 wall (3/16") DOM. The bearing assembly is going to be A to Z fabs "mega" 1.5" spindle that will be re-inforced to the frame for extra support. I'll have some recovery points in there too, just waiting on all the stuff to arrive in the mail. The top piece is not cut to length, so don't worry about how wide it looks. I just started on this yesterday.
I have a bone-stock '95 YJ - I'm saving right now to drop a hp44 and 9" into it with some lockers and wanted to do a lift at the same time... So, I have been thinking about the Rubicon Express 4.5" kit and a 1" body lift so that I could run some 35's, but have never seen it in person or ridden in one with it. Does anyone here have any experience with this kit (RE5520 - YJ 4.5" EXTREME-DUTY KIT). Ideally, I would like to stretch the frame and wheelbase, 4-link it, and set it up with some coilovers... but I think it will be a long time before I have the $$$ for that. I would like to be able to fit at least 35" tires, have decent on-road performance (its not a daily driver, but I do take it on highways occasionally), and have the most flex I can get with leaf springs...
Does anyone know if replacing my evaporation canister with a smaller one will effect the performance? I want to relocate it and replace it with a smaller one to cut down on the clutter. What about the legality?
This is style I have This is the style I'd like... Anyone know if the grill swappable without body/grill modification?
I put a used 3.50 open diff 9" third member in my Bronco for temporary street use until I can rebuild my TrueTrac. I checked the play on the used unit at the axle flanges and there was no play. However, I didn't perform any other inspection of the spider gears besides a visual check and they looked ok. The pinion gear was snug against the ring gear too. However, since installing it with a 1310/1330 hybrid u-joint, it makes a sort of ratcheting sound as the speed increases, not quite a grinding. Up around 50 mph it is a resonant vibration. I can't tell if it's coming from the diff side or the tcase side of the driveline from inside the cab cuz my flowmasters are too loud. I was gonna pull the driveline and check the 2 u-joints in the cv joint yesterday, but something came up. Is anyone familiar with this sound? I kinda hope it's just the used third member since it's temporary. If so, think it'll last a few months as a dd? Thanks, Chris
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