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Thread: dana 44 caster correction/adjustment

  1. #1
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    dana 44 caster correction/adjustment

    Im in desprite need of fixing the caster on my front dana 44, as it sits with the right amount of pinion slop im at -20 degrees caster and from what i have read all over i need anywhere from +-0 to +7 degrees caster, now ive heard from some people that you can just cut the weld and take a BFH and hhit the crap outta it till it gets where you need it and other people have told me it requires a press to get it to move? anyone out there done one or something like this? im tryin not to waste all the little bit of money i have. thanks

  2. #2
    I support Reno4x4!
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    i cut mine and welded them back on. with out to much problem. but i was shorting the tube at the same time.so i just cut it off and cut the small piece of tube out of the "c" cleaned it up and welded it back on.
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  3. #3
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    how hard was it to get the "c" part off if its not too hard then i think i can manage the rest im just worried the actual taking the "c" part off will prove to be hard and with my luck ill break it or worse , bend it so its not in the shape it should be

  4. #4
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    Did the grind and smack to set the caster on a Scout 44, going in my commando. Not hard, but try not to grind too much. It is a hairline crack you are looking for, and pretty hard to see. I ground too much off one sade and had to fill with weld (not fun). When you are almost to the height of the tube, stop often and look for the hairline...
    First they came for the verbs, and I said nothing, because verbing weirds language. Then they arrival for the nouns, and I speech nothing because I no verbs.

  5. #5
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    did you have to hit the "c" really really hrad? im just worried about bending or breakin the "c", would it help to heat it up?kewl, since two people locally have done it i guess ill give it a try when im not workin so i can try to get it all done that day lol thanks guys

  6. #6
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    You only smack it to see the crack. Past that a jig and a press is the best way to get it aligned. You can cheat a bit and keep the steering on and just a bottle jack to get it pretty close then do 4 1" welds. Sit it on its weight move the steering a bit and recheck, if your good then weld it up. If not grind and try again.

    do you want this close or prefect? Off road only or DD is the question. I'm glad your doing it the right way instead of shims and other stuff people try to use to correct that much castor.

  7. #7
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    i dont plan on drivin this very much on the road but still i dont want a freakin hodge podge rig, i got my lil jig setup today so wed. when im off next im goin to sart, ill take some pictures, i also need to do a build thread, just been a bit busy with it

  8. #8
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    ok well i did the grind, heat up, major beating with a really really big sledge and still nothin, i even let it soak in penetrating lube all nite while at the eatin contest, and still i can get it to budge...im at the point where im just goin to sayf it and go buy a high pinion from pick-n-pull and with that i wont have any issues with the caster. ill just use thios axle for parts for the rear disc brake setup and spare parts

  9. #9
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    do you see the hairline crack all the way around. I would imagine it would take a full on swing with a large sledge to get it to budge. I narrowed a 44 once and it was a full on chore just beating the c back onto the tube.
    1990 sky high YJ

  10. #10
    Wheeler
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    yea at the end of hitting the c about 30 times full force a 1/3 of the hairline showed up. but im still wondering if maybe just goin high pinion is maybe the better thing to do

  11. #11
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    Sounds like you need more leverage

    Now that you got the crack you are going to need to mark the housing with a punch stamp in a couple places, hold the C's still and use something hydraulic to jack/turn the housing. The C's are pressed in you wont simplely move them.

  12. #12
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    heres a view of the cuts



    i think i found my HP d44 so i might just be using the internals for parts now...

  13. #13
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    Kinda hard to tell in the pic. Where the heat distortion line is should be the area of the crack. I would go over the crack with the angle grinder a bit more. I think your almost there really.

  14. #14
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    looks like you should be good, judging by the pics, and you may even be a tad too deep. The crack was very hard for me too see at first, so I kept grinding, and then had to spend a good amount of time filling the valley with weld...Maybe drip a little red food coloring in there, to see if the crack shows any better? Just a few wacks with a light sledge got mine to turn...Okay, with that said...If you want the end product to be high-pinion, then go that route now or you may regret later...
    First they came for the verbs, and I said nothing, because verbing weirds language. Then they arrival for the nouns, and I speech nothing because I no verbs.

  15. #15
    Wheeler
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    yea i think im gon to go that route, with a hpd44 , then i can use this one for parts...

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