I want to put another battery in my TJ, re. to run my welder. It requires 24 vokts DC.. Any iders??? or know how??? ted
I want to put another battery in my TJ, re. to run my welder. It requires 24 vokts DC.. Any iders??? or know how??? ted
Kilby makes a great tray for that, It's the one I had in my TJ and I can get pictures if you want to see it. I just wired mine in parallel since I wasn't using the other battery as a backup and that way they both always got charged.
"The dog don't like you planting stuff there. It's his backyard. If you're the only one who craps in something, you own it. Remember that."-I don't understand the purpose of the line, "I don't need to drink to have fun." Great, no one does. But why start a fire with flint and sticks when they've invented the lighter?Originally Posted by Steve Casci
from the site:
Fits 2000 -2006 TJ
This Kilby Dual Battery Tray for the 2000-2006 TJ fits two batteries in the place of one! Dual batteries ensure you have enough power for winching, auxiliary lighting, and other accessories without leaving you stranded. The tray is made from heavy-duty steel, includes all necessary hardware, and is easy to install.
Installation notes:
* Does not include wiring.
* For use with “Optima” Series 34 and 34/78 batteries only.
* Fits 2000-2006 TJ equipped with AC.
* Includes new modified AC line for systems with removable line to dryer.
* AC must be re-charged after line installation.
15 lbs. 16x12x4
TJ-DBT1 $185.00
[View Instructions]
Fits 1997-1999 TJ with AC and 1997 - 2003 TJ without AC
This Kilby Dual Battery Tray for the 1997-1999 TJ with AC & 1997-2003 TJ without AC fits two batteries in the place of one! Dual batteries ensure you have enough power for winching, auxiliary lighting, and other accessories without leaving you stranded. The tray is made from heavy-duty steel, includes all necessary hardware, and is easy to install.
Installation notes:
* Does not include wiring.
* For use with “Optima” Series 34 and 34/78 batteries only.
* Fits 1997-1999 TJ equipped with AC and 1997-2003 TJ without AC.
* Does not include modified AC line. 1997-1999 models with AC will need to have their AC line modified by a local AC shop.
* AC must be re-charged after line installation.
14 lbs. 16x12x4
TJ-DBT2 $155.00
[View Instructions]
"The dog don't like you planting stuff there. It's his backyard. If you're the only one who craps in something, you own it. Remember that."-I don't understand the purpose of the line, "I don't need to drink to have fun." Great, no one does. But why start a fire with flint and sticks when they've invented the lighter?Originally Posted by Steve Casci
thanks that was what I was looking for.
I want to see this. In person not in pics please let me know when it is done so I can check it out!![]()
Hard work good, Hard work fine, But first take care of head! Knowledge is everything!
X2 Cashmoney. I've run dual optimas in parellel for years and haven't had any problems.
1985 Chevy K5 Blazer Silverado 3/4 Ton - Built LT1 350 TPI, 700R4, NP208, 5.13's, 10 bolt 30 spline chromos up front, locked 14b ff rear, 37in. GoodYear Wrangler Military MT's etc etc... : 2008 Chevy 2500 4x4 Suburban LT Fully Loaded on 20's.
I think you're going to have some problems.
You asked about adding a single battery to make 24 Volts DC.
You can do it by having two batteries run in series. This will give you 24 Volt DC current.
However, your vehicle and your accessories run on a 12 volt system. If you try to add a battery in series to run a 24 VDC welder, and don't isolate it from your vehicle power system, you'll fry your vehicle power system.
The tray systems listed above are generally used to provide an extra battery run in parallel.
Two batteries run in parallel will give you a strong 12 Volt DC current (lots of amps). This gives you more battery time to run your stuff.
I'm sure there is a system that will allow you to use the original vehicle battery, and add one to provide 24VDC for 24VDC systems and isolate power to allow you to run 12VDC for your vehicle/12VDC accessories, but I bet it will be a bit more involved than the systems listed here, and probably a lot more expensive.
Flex? What's that? I don't need flex for muddin'.
The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.
- Albert Einstein
Are you going to stand up for somebody today, or just sit back and do nothing?
- Fallon Jeeper
Exactly what he said. I deal with batteries all the time in my line of work both in series and parallel configurations. The dual battery holder holds two batteries but it dosent address your issue of running a 24 volt welder. You would have to have some way to isolate the batts from your vehicles electrical system then switch them over to 24 volts before you could weld. Im sure their has got to be some product out their to meet your needs.
You might try something like this. You may not need another battery, although you may want another "in parallel" to give you plenty of power.
You've got my interest now.
http://www.secamerica.com/model620.html
or this
http://www.powerstream.com/dc24.htm
Last edited by FallonJeeper; August 10th, 2009 at 07:38 PM.
Flex? What's that? I don't need flex for muddin'.
The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.
- Albert Einstein
Are you going to stand up for somebody today, or just sit back and do nothing?
- Fallon Jeeper
If i'm not mistaken he is using a preimer power ready welder. In order to weld on his rig he has to unhook the battery anyways so since he has to do that and they are side by side its easy to hook them up in series do his welding, then hook them back up to parallel and take off.If you wanted to get really crazy you could get a series parallel switch that was used in old peterbilts with a 24 volt starter so all you had to do is flip a switch to disconnect your car and run 24 v, but it just seems like it wouldn't be worth it when they are mounted right beside eachother.
"The dog don't like you planting stuff there. It's his backyard. If you're the only one who craps in something, you own it. Remember that."-I don't understand the purpose of the line, "I don't need to drink to have fun." Great, no one does. But why start a fire with flint and sticks when they've invented the lighter?Originally Posted by Steve Casci
"The dog don't like you planting stuff there. It's his backyard. If you're the only one who craps in something, you own it. Remember that."-I don't understand the purpose of the line, "I don't need to drink to have fun." Great, no one does. But why start a fire with flint and sticks when they've invented the lighter?Originally Posted by Steve Casci
That's a lot of work for something that's gonna kind a work. Plus, how much does that welder pull. How you going to keep the batteries charged?
He'd be better off witha dedicated system with a way of providing a charge.
Flex? What's that? I don't need flex for muddin'.
The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.
- Albert Einstein
Are you going to stand up for somebody today, or just sit back and do nothing?
- Fallon Jeeper
:scratch: worked fine in my TJ and its still got the same batteries from 06. They charge fine too when hooked parallel, thats how every Peterbilt on the road is hooked, only they have 4 hooked together with no issues.
here's the welder he's using http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/re...readyweld.html
"The dog don't like you planting stuff there. It's his backyard. If you're the only one who craps in something, you own it. Remember that."-I don't understand the purpose of the line, "I don't need to drink to have fun." Great, no one does. But why start a fire with flint and sticks when they've invented the lighter?Originally Posted by Steve Casci
It could be done if you connected the batteries with some contactors operating on 12 volt coils, 1 with NO (Normally Open) and one with NC (Normally Closed) contacts. (Use contactors, not relays because of the high amperage your welder will likely draw).
Wire your contactors so when the ignition is switched to on 12V is supplied to the contactor coils (both) and the contactors become energized. With one contactor connecting the batteries in parallel, and the opposite contactor connecting the batteries in series you could have a 12V parallel circuit when the ignition is on, this way both batteries would charge at just 12V while your vehicle is running.
Switching the vehicle to off would release both conatctors, your NC contactor would then be wired to have the batteries in series giving you your 24V when the vehicle is off only.
Use your favorite search engine to search...
"heavy duty 12V DC contactor"
To find a place to buy them from. Remember you want one to be NC and the other to be NO, meaning the points on the contactor are made when 12V is supplied to one (NO) and not to the other (NC). You also want to check the specs on your welder and make sure the contacts on the contactors you buy are rated high enough for this amperage, like if your welder draws 30A while running I'd go with a contactor rated for around 50A just to be safe, but definitely higher than the amperage rating of your welder.
For safety (optional but recommended), in case a coil fails on the NC contactor you wouldn't want the 24V to then hit your vehicle electronics. Installing a diode of high enough rating in the series with the series circuit would then prevent your 24V from ever being able to come back into your 12V system. A diode could also be used in a center tap type configuration so you could maintain the 12V needed at the ignition module when the vehicle is off.
Most high end car audio shops would likely be able to hook you up with everything you need, contactors and diodes and even a circuit breaker (preferred over a fuse) rated above your welder amps and below the rating of the contactors just to be safe.
That would be a very simple and cheap way to do this automatically.
A more expensive, but easier approach would be to check with an RV repair company. I know there are some RV's out there that use both 12 and 24 volts in them. They have fancy power supply boxes that allow for a built in center tap to obtain the 12 volt side needed for the vehicle. No idea how much they cost, never needed one, but I'd guess them to be expensive. Certainly more expensive than the DIY system I suggested above.
Missed that link first time around...
With contactors (and if you have room) you could even use a third battery to get your 36 volts out of this and the full potential of the welder at 350 amps (also dependent on the quality of batteries you are using). A nice 1 farad capacitor parallel on each battery would help under peak loads (not required, but I would), these are also available at high end car audio shops.
- Ready for use with battery power 24V = 250 amps and 36V = 350 amps.
Just make sure the contacts on the contactors are rated well over this amperage (the more the better, but no point wasting money on extreme over kill)
Good idea, but probably not enough amps to run a welder.
Readywelder has a website, so does www.zena.net
go here for some comparisons
http://www.parksoffroad.com/miscinst...weldermain.htm
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I agree. That's what I was saying running a welder on two 12 volt batteries may work for a few minutes, but with no way to keep them charged while running in a series, you'd be out of juice quickly. Then you may not have enough battery left to start the vehicle, even if the batteries are in parallel.
Flex? What's that? I don't need flex for muddin'.
The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.
- Albert Einstein
Are you going to stand up for somebody today, or just sit back and do nothing?
- Fallon Jeeper
i use the premier power welder and it works great. when you switch the control box to weld mode, it disconnects the charging system and the welder is powered only by the high amp alternator. (crank up the RPMs to about 75 volts and weld away) It does not draw on the batteries at all. When done welding, go back to idle, flip the switch and return to charge mode.
If you do not have the control box and high amp alternator, then yo must jimmy rig two batteries into series. I wonder if under that situation, they can be wired is parallel for charging and running 12VDC accessories, etc. Then wire in a custom pig tail that makes it series for welding only or to run a 23VDC winch. Use an Anderson power pole connector or something similar. So when you need 24VDC for a ready welder, just plug it into the power pole connector. Weld away but be quick about it.
Battery recovery is another issue. My dual optimas are in parallel and the aux battery is charged by way of a remote activated continuous duty solenoid. Power on and the aux gets a charge. Off and no charge to aux battery.
here's the latest problem: Have a red top for starting and a yellow top for the accessories. They accept and store energy in different ways, so the result is the external voltage regulator goes all crazy sensing the different needs and goes whacko. My voltage then fluctuates from a low of like 12 up to almost 16! Yikes. The dash volt meter looks like a wiper blade in a rain storm. The cure seems to be sure that both batteries are similar in all respects.
Last edited by RARECJ8; August 11th, 2009 at 10:50 AM.
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Everyone has been great, you guessed it it is a premier wire feed welder, mod 10000... I am in no condition, yet, to do the install. Can any of you recommend someone to do the install??? thanks again ted
www.12voltgut.com has great wiring products and you can call him and get technical info also.
www.12voltgut.com is not a valid link.
I take it you plan on using this on the trail. Your welder looks like it needs 24 VDC and 250 AMPS. The 12 VDC to 24 VDC booster converters only go up to 55 AMPS, so obviously they won't work.
Simplest setup would be a dual battery box setup, wired in series, in the back of the TJ. Don't connect it to your vehicle power system. You can weld for 20 - 45 minutes on the batteries. When they need re-charged you could disconnect the series and charge them individually. I'm sure it could be bolted in and wired/switched to allow you to flip a switch or two to re-charge with the engine running. It does sound like a challenge and a fun project.
Flex? What's that? I don't need flex for muddin'.
The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.
- Albert Einstein
Are you going to stand up for somebody today, or just sit back and do nothing?
- Fallon Jeeper
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