need any fab work I can help out ted and ofcourse no charge for you. but we can make the boxes and use a trickle charger to keep them charged.
need any fab work I can help out ted and ofcourse no charge for you. but we can make the boxes and use a trickle charger to keep them charged.
I spoke to their tech support on this because I started questioning in my mind those amperage ratings listed on their web site. According to their tech support rep this thing can potentially draw as much as 500 Amps if you're welding up to 3/4", so make sure all the wiring and any type of connectors you use is rated for up to 500A continuous duty.
Also worth mention here, which I didn't see noted on their web site, If you are using the gas tank with this welder it runs in negative ground, if you use this without the gas tank and just the flux core wire it then runs positive ground.
500A and the ability for this to switch between positive and negative polarity makes a pretty big difference. In that case I'd make sure everything that has anything to do with your vehicle electronics system is completely disconnected physically, both positive and negative.
A minimum of 4Ga wire or larger and as absolutely short as possible.
The most basic setup would be two battery boxes mounted to a board in the back of the TJ with two batteries, connected, with 4 GA battery terminal cable, with the cable connected to the positive on one battery and connected to the negative on the other battery. Note - this system would be independent of the vehicles electrical system. No chance of frying your rig, or draining the battery to nothing.
When you're ready to weld, you connect the clamps of the welder to the appropriate post, one open post + and - on each battery.
For charging you can disconnect the batteries from each other, either by way of a switch or physically disconnecting the cable and put them on a trickle charger. If you can find a 24 VDC charger, you could keep them connected. Load up your batteries the night before you go wheeling and charge them.
Make sure you have the battery boxes secure with good lids. You can get some good ones at RV parts stores. You wouldn't want 24 VDC at 720 AMPS bouncing around in the back of your TJ while wheeling.
Parts needed:
2 batteries. Same type preferred.
2 insulated battery boxes - $9 each - $18 total
1 4 GA universal battery cable - $8
Board and screws to mount the battery boxes. - Probably free if you have something lying around
That little welder looks great, I may learn to weld and get one like that and do a setup like I described above.
Last edited by FallonJeeper; August 13th, 2009 at 12:50 PM.
Flex? What's that? I don't need flex for muddin'.
The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.
- Albert Einstein
Are you going to stand up for somebody today, or just sit back and do nothing?
- Fallon Jeeper
"The dog don't like you planting stuff there. It's his backyard. If you're the only one who craps in something, you own it. Remember that."-I don't understand the purpose of the line, "I don't need to drink to have fun." Great, no one does. But why start a fire with flint and sticks when they've invented the lighter?Originally Posted by Steve Casci
You guys are awesome, thanks a lot...
I finally got my second battery, now onto gathering parts for my dual set-up. I've got a red top and a yellow top. I plan to run Red as a staring/main battery, and yellow for winch/accessories, with an isolating relay between them.
Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. ... The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their consciences.
-- C. S. Lewis
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