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Thread: My first build! - '69 Cruiser

  1. #26
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    Alan
    Out of insane curiosity, with the weight of the new motor, are you going to have to add a few more leafs to the front?? OR just longer shackles??
    Life sucks, unless your wheelin somewhere!!

    If my TJ cant make it, time for upgrades!!

    My wife screams like a school girl every time we go wheelin!!

    The best place to be is where your friends are!

  2. #27
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    I'll answer what I know on the matter: No. The 2F motor weighs in at around 800lbs which is more than a chevy big block motor, and I doubt if the new diesel weighs any more than the 2F did. Those are some seriously heavy motors.

  3. #28
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    CHRIS
    they both weigh right around 750 fully dressed
    OUTCAST CRAWLERS
    #989 Lunch Money Racing

  4. #29
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    WOW, didn't know that little 4 banger weighed in like a sumo wrestler!! LOL And the diesel weighed in so light!! Its the old power to weight ratio thing!! More power with less weight means break more rocks!!! LOL
    Life sucks, unless your wheelin somewhere!!

    If my TJ cant make it, time for upgrades!!

    My wife screams like a school girl every time we go wheelin!!

    The best place to be is where your friends are!

  5. #30
    Wheeler
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    Quote Originally Posted by renojeepster View Post
    Can't exactly tell your limitations from the photos, but here is a Jeep WJ steering box.
    Attachment 33882
    That may work! Not sure I could clear a box mounted on the inside of the frame, but if I can that's better! Anyone have one of those WJ steering boxes laying around? A test fit would be great! lol

    Looks like other than the possibility of the WJ box, the 72-80 Scout II box would be best, and its expensive :/ and special order... Part #27-7550 from A-1 Cardone. Anyone have a Scout II box?

    And yea, just like what poor boy and geocrasher said, the weight is going to be within 150lbs or so of original Just more HP and TQ, and peak TQ will even be in about the same spot.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by alan71 View Post
    WOW, didn't know that little 4 banger weighed in like a sumo wrestler!! LOL And the diesel weighed in so light!! Its the old power to weight ratio thing!! More power with less weight means break more rocks!!! LOL
    It is a straight 6 not a 4 banger

  7. #32
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  8. #33
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    Here's a Scout II box in an FJ40...





    SOOOO much cleaner and SOOO much more room than a GM saginaw!

  9. #34
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    UPDATE!:

    Got my scout II box, and its almost installed! Just seem to have no time to spend working on this thing... Been busy getting a lot of parts too.

    Frame cut out:


    Holes drilled:


    Shock tower clearanced:


    What used to be there:


    Clearance (TIGHT!!!):





    Mock up:


    Almost ready to weld 'er in:
    Last edited by dylan8427; July 4th, 2014 at 05:10 PM.

  10. #35
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    Is that last picture in mustang?
    Your tires only flat on the bottom and it only leakin' because your stopped!
    4x2'in In a 2x4

  11. #36
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    On the first page?
    Your tires only flat on the bottom and it only leakin' because your stopped!
    4x2'in In a 2x4

  12. #37
    Wheeler
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    steering box looks good dylan! your welcome for the bolts haha

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87cherokee View Post
    Is that last picture in mustang?
    Not sure which pic your looking at, and what do you mean?

    Quote Originally Posted by NorNev/XJ View Post
    steering box looks good dylan! your welcome for the bolts haha
    Thanks Albert

    UPDATE:

    There is 3/16" thick (I think? lol) DOM tubing running between the frame wells behind the plate that the bolts go through for strength. I could only weld them in on one side for obvious reasons though :/

    Welded and smoothed out (and no, my welds aren't great... :/ ):



    Painted:

    Last edited by dylan8427; July 4th, 2014 at 05:10 PM.

  14. #39
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    [QUOTE=dylan8427;589746]Not sure which pic your looking at, and what do you mean?

    The last pic on the first page. And is that out in mustang? The exit passed lockwood??
    Your tires only flat on the bottom and it only leakin' because your stopped!
    4x2'in In a 2x4

  15. #40
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    Looks good.

    I would think about using sleeves through the frame at those steering box bolts though.
    Juston
    MRANN #519P


    04 WJ, 4.7H.O., K&N FIPK, Flowmaster Super 40, 231 T-Case swap w/ 32spline S.Y.E., Vari-Lock Differentials, 5.5" Iron Rock Coils, Clayton's Long Arms, Bilsteins, JKS Quicker Disconnects, Tie Rod and Drag Link flip, 315/75R16 BFG KM2's, IRO rocksliders, Gas tank raised 6", 1600watts of Kickin Ass Alpine Stereo.
    Link:
    '04 WJ Build Thread


    Links:
    '70 Jeepster Build Part 1
    '70 Jeepster Build Part 2

    R.I.P. Jeepster. New one ton Jeepster project to come.....

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by renojeepster View Post
    Looks good.

    I would think about using sleeves through the frame at those steering box bolts though.
    Got thick tubing in between the frame rails

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by dylan8427 View Post
    Got thick tubing in between the frame rails

    Nice! Keep up the good work!

    Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
    Juston
    MRANN #519P


    04 WJ, 4.7H.O., K&N FIPK, Flowmaster Super 40, 231 T-Case swap w/ 32spline S.Y.E., Vari-Lock Differentials, 5.5" Iron Rock Coils, Clayton's Long Arms, Bilsteins, JKS Quicker Disconnects, Tie Rod and Drag Link flip, 315/75R16 BFG KM2's, IRO rocksliders, Gas tank raised 6", 1600watts of Kickin Ass Alpine Stereo.
    Link:
    '04 WJ Build Thread


    Links:
    '70 Jeepster Build Part 1
    '70 Jeepster Build Part 2

    R.I.P. Jeepster. New one ton Jeepster project to come.....

  18. #43
    Wheeler
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    cold springs
    [QUOTE=87cherokee;590611]
    Quote Originally Posted by dylan8427 View Post
    Not sure which pic your looking at, and what do you mean?

    The last pic on the first page. And is that out in mustang? The exit passed lockwood??

  19. #44
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    UPDATE:

    Engine mounts are 50% done. God I move slow... lol





    Engine's weight is finally off the block and finally on the frame!



    Still a LOT more work to do on the mounts to finalize them, but at least they can hold the motor now. I suppose that's good news for the strength, being only half way done Still need to trim the rear cross member and start mockup of the rear mounts. Yea, that's right, I haven't even started the rear yet :/ lol

    Motor has to come out first to trim the rear cross member though (which has to happen before I can start on the rear mounts), and it won't go back in until the front mounts, steering, and possibly the brakes are in. While the motors out it will get some work done on it, too.

    I really prefer not to think about all the work I still have to do just to drive it :/
    Last edited by dylan8427; July 4th, 2014 at 05:10 PM.

  20. #45
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    It's been a while since I've done an update... mostly because it's been a while since I got anything done :/ I have not bought a new welder, but I did swap the stinger lead from the "high" side to the "low" side, which yielded a far more stable arc, it will now maintain an arc for more than 5 seconds, and at a much lower amperage setting! Not sure how the "low" side works with a LOWER amperage setting (~75 amps vs ~120 amps), but it works. Something is wrong with the high side because no matter the setting, it would completely stop making an arc at all after a few seconds. If anyone is curious I'm using 3/32 E-7018 rods.

    Both motor mounts are now completely bolt-in, with the wear parts swappable. They can take the full weight of the motor without a problem, and everything sits right where it needs to be. Next time the motor comes out I will trim all the excess metal off them and finish them.

    This is how you bolt a Chevy diesel into a Toyota using OEM mounts!











    Just to see how tight this is going to be, I did a highly technical mock up of the steering rod





    Last edited by dylan8427; July 4th, 2014 at 05:11 PM.

  21. #46
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    Haven't done an update in a while...

    Got some of the rear cross member / tranny mount done.

    First weld pass







    Second pass



    Flatten the corners





    Weld 'em up





    And cleaned up

    Last edited by dylan8427; July 4th, 2014 at 05:12 PM.

  22. #47
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    I started work on the steering and brakes because I was tired of working on motor and tranny mounts lol

    Had to make those bolt to the firewall somehow...



    With this...





    Last edited by dylan8427; July 4th, 2014 at 05:12 PM.

  23. #48
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    Metal work finished... it is bolt-in















    Only pics I have of the brake install, I'll get more later



    Last edited by dylan8427; July 4th, 2014 at 05:13 PM.

  24. #49
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    I'm getting sick of working on it... I wanted to make it seem closer to done... so I put the fenders back on lol

    Driver fender mostly clearanced for the box





    Clearance for steering rod



    Clearance to firewall - a mile!



    Turbo clearance - not bad! And it will get more space (will explain later)



    What the engine bay of a 6.2L V8 turbo diesel powered FJ40 looks like



    And it all clears!





    Now where in world am I going to put 2 batteries...

    And BTW, I'm using a Wrangler pitman arm, but need one that has no drop (or very little), I'm keeping the 4" drop one for when I do the spring over, but that won't come till later, I want this thing back on the road! Anyone got one laying around?

    Also, I'm still kind of up in the air on using heims or ball joints... I have to build the drag link... If I use heims I have to drill the tapered holes out on the pitman and inner pass tie rod for a 5/8 bolt. If I use ball joints I need to find 2 completely different size ball joints (taper) with 3/4 16 thread (what I'm using for the drag link)...
    Last edited by dylan8427; July 4th, 2014 at 05:15 PM.

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  26. #50
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    use one semi truck battery,

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