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Thread: My first build! - '69 Cruiser

  1. #51
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    Wow it's been a while since I updated this!

    Fixed all the old image links!

    Ok, so I've gotten a bit more done.... Where did I leave off? lol

    Let's see... fuel lines are just about in.

    Fuel pump and both lines underneath. (also shows modified cross member to clear e-brake drum)




    Return line mounted



    Fuel-water separator / primary fuel filter





    Fan shroud is also done!







    VERY tight clearance. If I remember right I have 1/2" clearance from the clutch to the radiator. The fan is exactly half in and half out of the shroud. Should give me optimal cooling and I'll take all I can get.

    Old fan



    New fan


  2. #52
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    Radiator to grill clearance



    Fan to rad clearance




  3. #53
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    Oops, forgot to show the secondary fuel filter...


  4. #54
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    Ok, so I also had to modify the bracket for the 4wd vacuum shift box. It would not clear the motor...






    I also decided to add a bit of metal to the tranny cross member because it actually deformed under the weight a little bit. It doesn't now haha






    I've also got the exhaust system just about done. Running a 3 inch straight pipe! (no room for a muffler anyway lol)

    Had to go through the body mount here



    Flex pipe right after the down pipe. The rest of the pipe is also properly rubber isolated.







    Fender clearance...



    I can't seem to find the pic of it all done, so I guess that will have to wait until I get the motor back in. It turns out just before the rear tire.

  5. #55
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    Very cool.. Are you planing on registering it?

  6. #56
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    Brake lines are also in!



    Can't find all the other pics though of the lower portion so I guess that's it on that lol

    I've got the battery location issue solved as well, they are going under the driver's seat. Had to make some room though. Had to cut a rather large hole in the floor... box is still not done but it's in and I am in the process of making a hold down and then mounting the electrical.



    Making the tray...



    Again missing pics of it in... :/ I'll take more when the batteries are mounted and the electrical is done.

    And the latest!

    Spring over is basically done! Just need to get some longer front shocks (was able to use stock rear shocks) and brake lines. Just finished this a couple weeks ago with the help of Nick aka huntinand4wheelin.









    In theory we accounted for the slightly longer than stock shackles and larger tires and dialed the caster in to about 3* positive caster, but I won't be able to tell for sure until weight is on it at least.

    I've also got the gaskets in to rebuild the 6.2L that it will be getting. The one that has been pictured in all the mock ups ended up going in an M1009 to replace a bad motor. The bad motor is what will go in the FJ now. I'm going to fix the head gaskets and the drilled-through block (some genius drilled out one of the starter bolt holes and went through into the water jacket). It will make a great guinea pig engine. I won't be have ANY machine work done to it and will pretty much just fix the head gasket and bolt issues and through it in. I got 2 other low mile J code 6.2s that I can build later.

    I'll try to keep the thread updated from here! lol

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by trupster415 View Post
    Very cool.. Are you planing on registering it?
    Yes, and smoging if possible haha

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by dylan8427 View Post
    Yes, and smoging if possible haha
    Hopefully DMV is ok with it since its pre 1980.. I ran into issues with the dmv smog cops when I put a cummins 6bt in my 1990 4runner..

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by trupster415 View Post
    Hopefully DMV is ok with it since its pre 1980.. I ran into issues with the dmv smog cops when I put a cummins 6bt in my 1990 4runner..
    Oh your the guy that had that thing!? I remember seeing that thing drive around in Lemon Valley haha

    I was told (although this is 2 years ago now lol) that because the 6.2L has a "light duty" app (half ton chevy trucks), and because they don't technically have to look under the hood for pre 1980, that they could push it through and convert the title to a diesel to smog it as such. Then I don't need any special registration or fake addresses. Hopefully when I'm done that holds true haha

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by dylan8427 View Post
    Oh your the guy that had that thing!? I remember seeing that thing drive around in Lemon Valley haha

    I was told (although this is 2 years ago now lol) that because the 6.2L has a "light duty" app (half ton chevy trucks), and because they don't technically have to look under the hood for pre 1980, that they could push it through and convert the title to a diesel to smog it as such. Then I don't need any special registration or fake addresses. Hopefully when I'm done that holds true haha
    Hopefully your still good. I know for sure on 1980 and newer you can only swap in what was avaliable for that model year. If you run into problems get a 67 or older vin and title and be done. My cruiser is a 67 and I am in the process of a 4bt swap!

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by trupster415 View Post
    Hopefully your still good. I know for sure on 1980 and newer you can only swap in what was avaliable for that model year. If you run into problems get a 67 or older vin and title and be done. My cruiser is a 67 and I am in the process of a 4bt swap!
    Hopefully haha

    Yea I've seen your build thread looks awesome

  12. #62
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    So, I've been working on the wiring on this thing. I've decided to attempt to repair and modify the completely screwed up original harness... mostly because I can't afford a new one right now. But I've hit a bit of a snag... The later model FJ's, from which my new steering column is out of, use a 3 wire brake/turn/tail light system. Obviously my '69 uses a 2 wire system (combined brake/turn).

    How do I make the 3 wire setup column (ironically the 3 wire column uses FEWER wires on the switch then the 2 wire, it has only a feed from the flasher, and an output to each side) work with the 2 wire setup on the cruiser? IIR correctly, 1973 FJ40s use this column, with a 2 wire light setup. Does anyone know how the factory did it? So far my options are:

    1) Don't use the turn signal switch on the column, use the add-on one that is already there, it clamps to any column
    2) Add another tail light on each side & convert it to a 3 wire system, one thing to note here is that my FJ doesn't actually have the factory lights, and I honestly kind of want to add them back anyway. What's there now is where reflectors usually are I think.
    3) Use this chingas http://www.etrailer.com/p-RM-732.html (thanks CrabbyCJ!) Anyone know how this thing functions? I prefer not to spend money... lol
    4) Use a system I came up with using 2 relays (one for each tail light). The relays would switch the power source from the brake switch to the flasher when the turn signal is applied.

    What do you guys think?

  13. #63
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    To clarify, here are wiring diagrams of what I'm talking about...





    Last edited by dylan8427; July 23rd, 2014 at 11:13 AM.

  14. #64
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    If that add-on blinker assembly is still wired, the cheapest option would obviously be to just clamp it on the column and ignore the one built into the column.

    But if it were my truck I would want to use the factory switch to keep it clean. Using these would be the cheapest way I could think to do that
    http://www.amazon.com/Husky-39871-Di...keywords=diode
    Pack of 3 diodes for $10, basically the same thing as the deal from that etrailer link except cheaper and you have 2 separate diodes floating in your wiring instead of 2 built into 1 unit
    Wire front turn signals right off of the turn signal switch. Then for rear signals, wire left turn and brake through one diode to the light, and right turn and brake through to the other
    Last edited by 3rd Petal; July 23rd, 2014 at 05:47 PM.

  15. #65
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    Just found this
    http://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufactu...MP5AEP8R2YM8ZN

    You can wire it up the same was as I mentioned earlier, except this will be cleaner since it is one unit

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3rd Petal View Post
    If that add-on blinker assembly is still wired, the cheapest option would obviously be to just clamp it on the column and ignore the one built into the column.

    But if it were my truck I would want to use the factory switch to keep it clean. Using these would be the cheapest way I could think to do that
    http://www.amazon.com/Husky-39871-Di...keywords=diode
    Pack of 3 diodes for $10, basically the same thing as the deal from that etrailer link except cheaper and you have 2 separate diodes floating in your wiring instead of 2 built into 1 unit
    Wire front turn signals right off of the turn signal switch. Then for rear signals, wire left turn and brake through one diode to the light, and right turn and brake through to the other
    I agree, just using what's there is by far the easiest and cheapest option, but I'm like you, and want it to be clean lol

    I can't figure out how to do it with just diodes? I can get it to kinda work with 4, but when you hit the brakes they would both come on... can you draw up a schematic?

    Quote Originally Posted by 3rd Petal View Post
    Just found this
    http://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufactu...MP5AEP8R2YM8ZN

    You can wire it up the same was as I mentioned earlier, except this will be cleaner since it is one unit
    Now THAT is more my price range. This might be my answer!

  17. #67
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    Well using those husky diodes from amazon would basically be using 4 diodes, each unit should have 2 diodes in it, one on each input. See schematic




    But I would use the other unit from Curt that would do both sides in one unit.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3rd Petal View Post
    Well using those husky diodes from amazon would basically be using 4 diodes, each unit should have 2 diodes in it, one on each input. See schematic

    But I would use the other unit from Curt that would do both sides in one unit.
    Ohhhh ok I see now lol

    Yea I'm going to pick up that other unit today, along with a few Relay boxes and wiring. I just figured out that the expensive ass Painless 6 bank relay thing won't work for me lol

  19. #69
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    Is it still appropriate to 'update' a thread this old? lol

    I'm not going to go into great detail, but I finally got this thing together and have been driving it since August 2017.

    Engine has been dubbed the "guinea pig" engine because it has serious internal damage, but was thrown together anyway as a proof of concept / testing. Turned out it ran great despite rusted cylinder walls, cracked main webs, and having run water for oil for several thousand miles, and more. The original engine I had for it ended up in an M1009, and the Cruiser got it's old engine which had been pulled for a multitude of serious issues. Basically, I got pissed and just threw it together in a 'fuck it' kind of way and it's worked far better than expected, in fact, it's been one of the most reliable vehicles I own lol. The swap was approved by the smog inspection station, and the title was changed over to diesel and it now smogs as such.







    IT GETS 28-32MPG... ON 37s... with run-flats.... I just took it 200 miles on Friday, and used only 6-7 gallons of fuel. Very pleased with that!

    Also, as of last Friday, it's now sitting on military 37's and re-centered beadlocks (which I must say is quite the job).





    In more news, because I bent the drag link Friday, I decided to finally tear down the front axle and to the cut and turn, disk brake conversion, and high steer conversion, but ran into something interesting. My axle is NOT a birfield axle - it's a ball and claw! And yes, really, I've never torn the front axle down until now... SO I decided to look up the VIN, and according to the VIN chart coolcruisers, it's a 1967, which means the title/registration/everything is wrong lol. Not sure how to fix that.

    Current plan is to build the '76 axle I've had laying around forever now, and send the '67 axle to the spare parts pile, but I also have a mini truck axle available, which has high-steer. Going to see if I can use the high-steer arms on the '76 40 axle, hopefully I can. As of yet, it hasn't had 4WD since the swap.








  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by dylan8427 View Post

    Current plan is to build the '76 axle I've had laying around forever now, and send the '67 axle to the spare parts pile, but I also have a mini truck axle available, which has high-steer. Going to see if I can use the high-steer arms on the '76 40 axle, hopefully I can. As of yet, it hasn't had 4WD since the swap.
    The truck arms won't fit the Cruiser knuckles, but you can just swap over the entire truck knuckle and just use all of the truck stuff. It's stronger (or just as strong), cheaper, and easier to find.

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by FeCamel View Post
    The truck arms won't fit the Cruiser knuckles, but you can just swap over the entire truck knuckle and just use all of the truck stuff. It's stronger (or just as strong), cheaper, and easier to find.
    I lucked out here... Wrong year again on the other axle. It was pulled 5+ years ago from a '76 FJ40, but apparently it wasn't original. The steering arm from the mini truck fits. After some research, this means that the axle is actually a '79+ 40 axle. I guess in '79 the stud pattern got bigger, and is identical to the mini truck axles. Yay for me! lol

    Still working on the disassembly, but so far everything is in good shape internally (externally is another story). Hoping the diff is good, and that I can swap the gears from the older axle (4:10s if I recall correctly, and the newer axle is 3:74s?? I just remember the older axles had better gearing lol).

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by dylan8427 View Post
    I lucked out here... Wrong year again on the other axle. It was pulled 5+ years ago from a '76 FJ40, but apparently it wasn't original. The steering arm from the mini truck fits. After some research, this means that the axle is actually a '79+ 40 axle. I guess in '79 the stud pattern got bigger, and is identical to the mini truck axles. Yay for me! lol

    Still working on the disassembly, but so far everything is in good shape internally (externally is another story). Hoping the diff is good, and that I can swap the gears from the older axle (4:10s if I recall correctly, and the newer axle is 3:74s?? I just remember the older axles had better gearing lol).
    Nice.

    Most Cruiser 9.5" axles were 4.10, some of the later FJ40s (79+) and the FJ60s had 3.70s for better highway speed and mileage. Then the FJ62s got the 4.10s again.

    If your old third members are 67-69 or older (it seems there's not a clear division year), they will have 10 spline inner axles, which won't work with the later stronger 30 spline axle shafts. You might be able to just swap the spider gears from the 10 spline to the 30 spline, or just swap the gears, but it's easy to just move the entire third into the new axle.

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by FeCamel View Post
    Nice.

    Most Cruiser 9.5" axles were 4.10, some of the later FJ40s (79+) and the FJ60s had 3.70s for better highway speed and mileage. Then the FJ62s got the 4.10s again.

    If your old third members are 67-69 or older (it seems there's not a clear division year), they will have 10 spline inner axles, which won't work with the later stronger 30 spline axle shafts. You might be able to just swap the spider gears from the 10 spline to the 30 spline, or just swap the gears, but it's easy to just move the entire third into the new axle.
    Ok yeah that explains the gear ratios then. So the spare is definitely '79+, which is good, but I will have to swap the spiders to the older 3rd and put it into the newer axle. This is a lot of work lol

  24. #74
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    So I've mathematically determined what my pinion angle needs to be at this point to get a 0* angle between it and the front driveline. I came up with an equation that can be graphed that shows the angle of the pinion (x) in relation to the angle of the driveline (y) at resting height. The bad part is to achieve that matched angle, my pinion has to be turned up to 15* (actually something like 14.57226xxx lol), which then puts the double cardan join at the Tcase end at a total angle of ~20* (driveline angle + 5.1*). If I do it for 1ft of suspension droop, I get ~38* at the tcase... How doable are these angles? lol

    These numbers are assuming I measured the distance correctly between them as it sits now without rotating the pinion. I'll double check them before I do any welding.

    In case anyone is curious, this is the equation:



    **Note that this equation only works for MY FJ40, AND IS IN DEGREES (means you MUST set the calculator to Degrees and not Radians to get the right numbers or graph, or I can give the equation in Radians but it adds complexity)... if you guys want something that works for any vehicle let me know. I've been thinking about making a website for some of these calculations.
    Last edited by dylan8427; June 21st, 2018 at 09:46 AM.

  25. #75
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    Nice to see another Cruiser out here! Finishing the build on my 76 as well:

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