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Thread: Door sensor bypass help

  1. #1
    Wheeler
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    Matt

    Door sensor bypass help

    Hey guys, my door is killing me and my battery! I've read a bunch of forums trying to fix this issue but I can't figure it out. So when my driver door is shut it's saying it's open and it's keeping my dome lights on and is draining my battery. I've tried to take the sensor off, still says door is open. Tried switch passenger and driver sensors still says driver door is opened. Tried taking out the fuse for the courtsey lights and when I do that the dome lights stay off but door lights continue to stay on. Any help please!

  2. #2
    Web Wheeler
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    Bill
    I am guessing this is a zj. Does the light go off if you just push the button in with your finger?

  3. #3
    Wheeler
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    It's a 98 zj 5.9. It doesn't matter if the sensor is in or out, it still thinks my door is open. When the sensor is in I push it and nothing, when it's out same thing.

  4. #4
    Wheeler
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    Weather the sensor is connected or complete takin off*

  5. #5
    Web Wheeler
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    dave
    Sound like a loose or broken sensor wire .

  6. #6
    Wheeler
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    I followed the power wire down to where it was coming from on the door panel and the wire looks fine

  7. #7
    Wheeler
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    Anyone know if I can just cut a wire or something?

  8. #8
    I support Blue Ribbon Coalition!
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    Matt, to gain access to the wiring to the the plunger switch/door ajar switch you have to remove the kick panel. Behind the kick panel there should be two wires coming from the plunger switch, one yellow and one black (driver door front). When the switch is out (door open) it creates a circuit between the yellow wire and the black wire (Black wire goes to ground) when you close the door it breaks the connection between the black and yellow wire thus removing the ground and turns off the lamps. It would be best if you have a simple V.O.M. meter to verify the switch is working properly (providing a ground). In other words, at each door switch (5) there is a wire looking for ground to turn on the lamps. (remember black wires are grounded). If any of these wires provide a ground it will turn on your interior lamps. If a wire has broken, worn through or there's a bare spot that touchs metal it will ground and turn on your lights. does that make sense to you ?
    Wa Pa Pow!

    76 CJ =8"+ lift ... 38.5 Boggers/Atlas/14 bolt+D44 Locked w/ARBs , 8000lb winch
    95 ZJ = 5"+ short arm lift... 33" Duratracs/ D44+D30 Locked, 12000lb winch
    2012 Kenetrek - Mountain Hunting Boots, size 13,(Back Up) Low Miles, lol


    KF7VCG


    heh,heh,heh,heh.............

  9. The Following 3 Users Like troutman's Post:

    CashMoney (January 14th, 2014), Desertdog77 (January 14th, 2014), RANDOMHERO (January 13th, 2014)

  10. #9
    I support Blue Ribbon Coalition!
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattDiceZJ View Post
    Hey guys, my door is killing me and my battery! I've read a bunch of forums trying to fix this issue but I can't figure it out. and it's So when my driver door is shut it's saying it's open keeping my dome lights on and is draining my battery. I've tried to take the sensor off, still says door is open. Tried switch passenger and driver sensors still says driver door is opened. Tried taking out the fuse for the courtesy lights and when I do that the dome lights stay off but door lights continue to stay on. Any help please!

    So when your driving,your interior lamps stay on all the time?and as far as cutting a wire for a fix....(don't compound things lol) you may want to unplug the switch if there's a plug that connects the switch....that would confirm a bad switch but not account for any possible short to ground between your switch and the fuse panel....awww crap just call me !

    keep in mind any of the 5 door switches could cause this condition LF, RF, LR, RR and the rear hatch.



    Here's a link to a diagram...the switches are on page 153 and 154 of the pdf file....
    http://edoqs.com/pdf/wiring-diagrams...cc54b740287d4b
    Last edited by troutman; January 13th, 2014 at 05:17 PM.
    Wa Pa Pow!

    76 CJ =8"+ lift ... 38.5 Boggers/Atlas/14 bolt+D44 Locked w/ARBs , 8000lb winch
    95 ZJ = 5"+ short arm lift... 33" Duratracs/ D44+D30 Locked, 12000lb winch
    2012 Kenetrek - Mountain Hunting Boots, size 13,(Back Up) Low Miles, lol


    KF7VCG


    heh,heh,heh,heh.............

  11. The Following User Likes troutman's Post:

    CashMoney (January 14th, 2014)

  12. #10
    Wheeler
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    Pit I'll give you a call tomorrow, moms birthday dinner in a few, thanks!

  13. #11
    Wheeler
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    I've been chasing down a draw coming from the Mux/Tow fuse (50 amp) in my ZJ. Chased it from there to the cluster box fuse in the kick panel. Seems like a pretty common problem with ZJ's based on the current research. Dash is apart and I'm realizing this could take a significant amount of work. Not something I wanted to do 2 weeks before my KOH trip. I still have a lot of other maintenance items to get to. Thinking about just pulling the fuse every time I shut the rig down and figuring it out when I get back. The draw takes a full battery to nothing overnight. I'm not into electrical issues and this is frustrating. Any detriments to pulling the fuse every time I shut my rig down?

  14. #12
    Wheeler
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    I ended up doing the same thing, I would pull my cluster fuse every time i would park it for a long time, but I pulled my courtesy light fuse because I couldn't stand all the lights coming on at night. I'm prolly just going to keep my cluster fuse in at all times and just unhook my door lights now. Shitty

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