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Thread: TTB MJ

  1. #51
    Wheeler
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    Are the bent tie rods for frame clearance on compression? Do they need that much bend? I like it, just curious as from even a desert bashing standpoint it seems as if those are at risk.

    Jack
    1985 4Runner on tons and 40's.
    2007 Chevy 2500hd max/alli/d60 front. 2008 FWC Pop-Up Camper

  2. #52
    Wheeler
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    Eric
    Quote Originally Posted by locrwln View Post
    Are the bent tie rods for frame clearance on compression? Do they need that much bend? I like it, just curious as from even a desert bashing standpoint it seems as if those are at risk.

    Jack
    Yeah, they are bent for clearance at full bump. Drivers has to clear the pitman arm and passengers has to clear the swingset. It's all 1.5" .250 wall Dom so it should be plenty stout. Pretty common practice on these TTBs.

  3. #53
    Wheeler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toymerica View Post
    Yeah, they are bent for clearance at full bump. Drivers has to clear the pitman arm and passengers has to clear the swingset. It's all 1.5" .250 wall Dom so it should be plenty stout. Pretty common practice on these TTBs.
    Gotcha. Sometimes, you gotta do what you gotta do.

    Jack
    1985 4Runner on tons and 40's.
    2007 Chevy 2500hd max/alli/d60 front. 2008 FWC Pop-Up Camper

  4. The Following User Likes locrwln's Post:

    Toymerica (February 11th, 2016)

  5. #54
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    Was cleaning some stuff up and came across a few of the many CAD(cardboard aided design) artifacts I had from the beam work.

    On a side note if someone needs a template for front Frame stiffeners I have one. All you gotta do is trace it, plasma it and weld it.

  6. The Following User Likes Toymerica's Post:

    turbobrick (February 11th, 2016)

  7. #55
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    Nothing to see here just a couple of jeep Couchmanches

  8. The Following User Likes Toymerica's Post:

    turbobrick (February 17th, 2016)

  9. #56
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    Picked up some F.O.A 2.5" series dual bypasses. 18" travel. Valved heavy for compression and light for rebound. Adjustable rebound valving, as well as dual adjustable compression valving. Should pair well with the Deaver springs in the rear.


  10. The Following 6 Users Like Toymerica's Post:

    Deluxxx (March 12th, 2016), ford boy (March 12th, 2016), gird123 (March 12th, 2016), Mattbarnes16 (March 14th, 2016), mattific (March 13th, 2016), turbobrick (March 12th, 2016)

  11. #57
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    so how much travel is this thing pulling?

  12. #58
    I support Reno4x4!
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    LOL i pull you out of the icy peavine ditch and you get rig of the month- pic taken same day. get the front to work yet?
    Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds.

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  13. The Following User Likes RARECJ8's Post:

    MARKUNIT10 (May 6th, 2016)

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by RARECJ8 View Post
    LOL i pull you out of the icy peavine ditch and you get rig of the month- pic taken same day. get the front to work yet?
    Hahaha funny the way that worked out.

    I'll be getting the 4x4 trans, transfer case and rear end done this fall so she if all goes well she should be 4x4 and fully operational this winter

  15. #60
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    Finally getting work done on the back half of the Comanche. Life happens so there was a 2 year gap between the front and rear. But stay tuned



    In her temporary home, tore out the factory Dana 44, gas tank and 2 wheel drive aw4 transmission


  16. #61
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    TTB MJ

    Decided to stick with the aw4 auto, and doing an NP203/Dana 300 dual transfer cases setup:

    Here's the factory tail housing before



    After: swapped a dodge np203 23 spline input into my GM203 case, has damn near full spline engagement, seal retainers bottom out on each other and the transmission side seal does not sit on the shorter 203 input so I cut it out. GM relies on just the np203 seal(a dual sided seal) to keep atf separate from the gear oil so it should be just fine



    Gap before hacking up the tailhousing seal retainer



    Grease line Where the trans seal was (no seal)



    Sits nice and flush, just gotta disassemble the 203, and re-drill and tap it for the aw4 circle pattern



    Settled where I want it, and transfer punched where to drill nice part is the tail housing was a tight/perfect fit over the input bearing retainer so it's self centering



    Original holes plugged with flush Allen bolts and rtv

    New holes tapped and ready for assembly




  17. #62
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    TTB MJ

    Aw4 to np203 is a success






    All mated up:


  18. #63
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    Now onto getting the flipped Dana 300 prepped



    She was in great shape, so I'm just gonna run it!



    Pulled the now top plate added a breather and a sight tube so I can easily check oil level



    Adavance adapter np203/300 adapter plate re-sealed and back on


  19. #64
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    TTB MJ

    Getting all my Ruff Stuff brackets welded

    Adjustable upper link mounts





    Pinion guard


    Axle side horizontal upper link mounts

    Tacked in place on the 9"


    Offset chassis link mount brackets for mounting my trailing arms just outside of the frame


  20. #65
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    Swapping a 1998+ aw4 trans so I used a 1989-1997 tailhousing and just swapped it into the 1998+ trans along with the output speed sensor and rotor, just gotta swap some connectors, solder some wires and it will all be plug and play.

    Short fat sensor is the newer style 4 pulse style

    Long skinny is the older single pulse style that my jeep is setup for electronically



    Removed the black 4 pulse rotor and swapped over a single pulse rotor (jeep has two snap ring slots like they knew us old jeepers would switch to the newer trans)



    Forced the jeep to accept the gm203 range box


  21. The Following 3 Users Like Toymerica's Post:

    Reckless Aaron (December 6th, 2017), Sierra Valley (December 6th, 2017), turbobrick (December 6th, 2017)

  22. #66
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    Welding for hours on the ruffstuff 48" URC trailing arms




    Got the 9" more or less in place at ride height so I can get some mounts mocked up



    Also made some frame stiffeners to plate the outside of the frame under the cab to reinforce where the trailing arm outriggers will mount



    All welded in place




  23. #67
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    16 Nov 2007
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    What happen to the deavers? Did you ever have them? I love the linked rear over the deavers though.
    Quote Originally Posted by BIG BLUE View Post
    Thats hysterical....whoa and I thought I was the master of booty fab. I feel like such an amateur. Its not even even...no way that can be real.

  24. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisdaledevine View Post
    What happen to the deavers? Did you ever have them? I love the linked rear over the deavers though.
    I had deavers and bypasses. Sold them both when I decided to ball out and link it.

  25. #69
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    Made a pair of these inner bed frame stiffeners to strengthen where the upper link brackets mount as well as beef up the frame since I have to French the outside frame rail where the factory leaf spring mount is for the coilovers to clear



    Made some upperlinks



    Got the stiffeners all welded, and upper mounts tacked and links all in for, time to cycle it all again and again and again.





    Full bump, upper link axle mount comes into the bed just a little bit




  26. #70
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    Christmas just keeps on coming.

    NorthWest Fabrications cable triple stick shifters for my 203/300 doubler



    And my RADesigns Winters electronic control gated aw4 shifter. Super sleek Shifter and switch set. I installed the RADesigns three shift switches and two shift switch cams into the Winters sidewinder gated shifter and it all works flawlessly. I'm going to keep my factory TCM on an on-off switch so I choose between factory Auto or full electronic manual shifting & my torque converter on a three way on-off-on switch so I can select between TCM controlled lockup-no lockup-manual lockup



  27. The Following 3 Users Like Toymerica's Post:

    Dirty Harry (December 22nd, 2017), Sierra Valley (December 18th, 2017), Toyota_James (December 20th, 2017)

  28. #71
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    Starting working on frenching the frame. For the coilovers. Gotta French for the bump stops as well.

    Frame material is just shy of 1/8". It's two .100" sheets sandwiched and pinched/spot welded together at the top and overlapped and spot welded at the bottoms



    View from the bed looking down through the French and to the trailing arms



    Plenty of performance and comfort should be had with King 2.5 series 14" dual rate coilovers and 4" stroke bump stops


  29. The Following 3 Users Like Toymerica's Post:

    Dennis (December 22nd, 2017), Kyle (December 24th, 2017), trupster415 (December 22nd, 2017)

  30. #72
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    TTB MJ

    Bump cans are frenched into the frame




    Started the bed cage as well





    Last edited by Toymerica; January 26th, 2018 at 06:53 AM.

  31. #73
    Wheeler
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    08 Nov 2013
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    Eric

    TTB MJ

    the bed cage is "done" and tacked. It has 10 points of contact with the frame. Saved as much bed space as I could without sacrificing strength. Built it so I can add a bypass in later off of the outermost bent tubes.






  32. The Following User Likes Toymerica's Post:

    Deluxxx (January 26th, 2018)

  33. #74
    Web Wheeler
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    Looks like fun!
    O' cruel fate, to be thusly boned! Ask not for whom the bone bones - it bones for thee. -Bender

  34. The Following User Likes Deluxxx's Post:

    Toymerica (January 27th, 2018)

  35. #75
    Wheeler
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    Eric
    Frame is frenched and re-plated for coilovers. Bed cage is fully welded. Shocks tacked in place, time to make some bump stop pads, cycle everything, measure for limit straps, and then get everything else welded up. Then move on to getting the transmission and transfercases back in the truck.









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