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Thread: Rookie questions

  1. #1
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    Rookie questions

    I just purchased a 1992 xj. It is a nice rig with a 3” lift, beefed up steering and such but it has the stock Dana 35 rear differential with the oem gears and a factory traction lock. I am considering upgrading the rear differential and changing the gears to 4.10 front and rear. Is this worth the effort and cost if I don’t intend to and serious rock crawling???

  2. #2
    TroubleShooter
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmansxj View Post
    I just purchased a 1992 xj. It is a nice rig with a 3” lift, beefed up steering and such but it has the stock Dana 35 rear differential with the oem gears and a factory traction lock. I am considering upgrading the rear differential and changing the gears to 4.10 front and rear. Is this worth the effort and cost if I don’t intend to and serious rock crawling???
    What size tires?
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  3. The Following User Likes Dennis's Post:

    maxamillion2345 (6 Days Ago)

  4. #3
    I support Reno4x4!
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    Don't believe these came with factory lockers......if you have, say, 31's, 4.10's might give a little better gas mileage, definite torque improvement and allow for slower crawl over obstacles, but if your not in to that, why bother? Make sure you have rear lockers, then enjoy a relatively capable rig that will get you to most anywhere you want to go. Just don't think your going to climb Everest! Get too crazy and you'll be snapping axles.
    92 XJ, 4.7 Stroker,header, K&N cone air filter, 31" BMG's , 3.5 Rusty's lift, BVG roof rack, 2.5" Kolak exhaust, more to come!

  5. #4
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    The build sheet says the rear axle has traction lock. Not sure just what that means but that is what it says.

  6. #5
    Wheeler
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    Trac lock is a factory limited slip. A locking diff would not be a good idea with a dana 35 in my opinion. A dana 44 or ford 8.8 swap are common upgrades to the 35.

  7. #6
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    Thanks, I would not put a locker in the 35, I was more in how the Trac Lok works off road.

  8. #7
    Wheeler
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    It's better than a open differential, but they do wear out, but they can be rebuilt or replaced. I ran L/S in both front and rear and could go through some pretty hard stuff.

  9. #8
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    Thanks a lot. That is the kind of information I need.

  10. #9
    Web Wheeler
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    You can drop hundreds of dollars into a Dana 35 and still have less strength or reliability than a bone stock Ford 8.8 out of an explorer. For those who don't want to swap, an 8.25 Chrysler is 2x as strong as the 35 and it's a factory swap.
    Some people are as useful as a football bat.

  11. The Following 2 Users Like WILLD420's Post:

    CashMoney (5 Days Ago), Dennis (5 Days Ago)

  12. #10
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    Thank, that seems to be the best choice as I know where to get a 29 spline 8.25. I just have to save my lunch money for upgrading the gearing and a locker.

  13. #11
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    Is there a trustworthy shop in Carson City where i can get the differential work done??

  14. #12
    Web Wheeler
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    Not sure. I do all my own these days. Dr. Smash used to do this stuff but he's primarily Fab work now.
    Some people are as useful as a football bat.

  15. #13
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    I don’t think Dr Smash is still in business these days. I did get the 29 spline 8.5 differential from a 2001 Cherokee. Now my dilemma is what gear to purchase.

  16. #14
    Web Wheeler
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    If you have an auto, go deeper than you think you need. At this elevation engines need all the help they can get. Always plan for more load and bigger tires down the road. 3.73 gears with 30" tires is a good base point. Every inch taller should go up around.25 ratio. For 31-32" 4.11 is ok. For 33" 4.10-4.27 for 34-35 4.56- 4.88 or 5.38 For 37 4.88-5.38 for 38-40 5.38-6.17. These will give you some guidelines. Grimmjeeper.com has a great calculator.

    Try to figure out the actual tire height, not advertised. Most 31's are actually only 29.5 - 30" tall. Most 33's are actually 31.5 ish.
    Some people are as useful as a football bat.

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